拉鏈知識(shí)培訓(xùn)

1、拉鏈知識(shí)培訓(xùn) 拉鏈知識(shí)講師:Steven訓(xùn)共四十三頁(yè)The definition of the zipper拉鏈(llin)的定義拉鏈?zhǔn)且揽窟B續(xù)排列的鏈，使物品并合和分離的連接件，現(xiàn)大量用于服裝，箱包，帳蓬等方面。 具體的解釋是：由兩條帶上各有一排金屬齒或塑膠齒組成的扣件，用于邊接開(kāi)口的邊緣（如衣服或袋口），有一滑動(dòng)件可將兩排齒拉入聯(lián)鎖位置使開(kāi)口封閉。 類似的產(chǎn)品有鈕扣(ni ku)，連扣帶，繩帶。但在功能上都不能完全取代拉鏈，因此拉鏈也被稱為21世紀(jì)十大偉大發(fā)明之一。共四十三頁(yè)The kinds of zippe拉鏈(llin)的種類一、按鏈齒的材質(zhì)分 A:尼龍拉鏈; B:塑鋼拉鏈; C:金

2、屬拉鏈 二、按型號(hào)規(guī)格分 3#/4#/5#/8#NL 3#/4#/5#/8#/10#VF 3#4#/5#/8#/10#M補(bǔ)充(bchng)：#5尼龍 分為大#5（0.74），小#5（0.68） #7塑鋼：細(xì)密齒（玉米齒） 三、按使用功能分 A:閉尾拉鏈; B:開(kāi)尾拉鏈; C:雙開(kāi)尾拉鏈補(bǔ)充：雙開(kāi)尾一般用在帳篷及長(zhǎng)大衣上共四十三頁(yè)The composition of the zipper拉鏈(llin)的組成(閉尾） 上止布端上止拉頭下止下止布端布帶鏈齒共四十三頁(yè)The composition of the zipper拉鏈(llin)的組成(開(kāi)尾)方塊(fn kui)插鞘布膠布帶鏈齒上止上布端

3、拉頭共四十三頁(yè)The composition of the zipper拉鏈(llin)的組成(雙開(kāi)尾）方塊(fn kui)插鞘布膠拉頭鏈齒上止布端共四十三頁(yè) The composition of pull head拉頭的組成(z chn)結(jié)構(gòu)底座(dzu)拉片鎖針帽蓋（彈片)共四十三頁(yè)The composition of cloth布帶的組成(z chn)結(jié)構(gòu)一、尼龍布帶 A:鏈齒; B:中心線; C:縫線; D:經(jīng)緯紗 二、塑鋼與金屬 由中心線、經(jīng)緯紗編織而成補(bǔ)充：A.我司經(jīng)紗條數(shù)(tio sh)在68-74條，部分同行58條左右，所以我司布帶較厚 B.我司使用布帶為平紋及YKK紋共四十三

4、頁(yè) The quality of the zipper拉鏈的質(zhì)量(zhling)要求1.拉鏈表面顏色均勻，不能有色花，色差的現(xiàn)象; 2.拉鏈鏈齒平直，布帶平直或有輕微的波浪狀; 3.整條拉鏈零部件齊全，鏈齒排列整齊，不得有缺齒， 壞齒的現(xiàn)象; 4.拉鏈的下止（方塊/插鞘）無(wú)明顯的歪斜，拉開(kāi)拉合時(shí)不得有拉頭卡住上止/下止的現(xiàn)象; 5.開(kāi)尾拉鏈（包括雙開(kāi)尾拉鏈）插取，啟動(dòng)靈活;布膠與布帶 粘合牢固.整齊。 6.拉鏈的上/下止及方塊插鞘等部件不得有刮傷皮膚的毛刺等突出物。 7.拉頭表面色澤均均，牢固，無(wú)氣泡，掉層等缺陷，型腔平整光滑;拉片翻動(dòng)靈活，標(biāo)志(biozh)清晰; 8.拉頭涂漆/電鍍均勻牢固

5、; 9.耐摩擦色牢度達(dá)3-4級(jí)的標(biāo)準(zhǔn); 10.耐水洗/干洗/整燙的縮率在3%之內(nèi);共四十三頁(yè)Zipper use matters needing attention拉鏈?zhǔn)褂米⒁?zh y)事項(xiàng)(1)1.對(duì)于有撞色的搭配（如面料為淺色，拉鏈為深色），下單時(shí)一定要特別注明，以免產(chǎn)生成衣移染的問(wèn)題;2.對(duì)于干洗(n x)及整燙，拉鏈的縮率在3%之內(nèi)，對(duì)于不同的面料，需根據(jù)面料材質(zhì)的縮水特征來(lái)決定訂購(gòu)的拉鏈尺寸長(zhǎng)短; 3.對(duì)于塑鋼及金屬拉鏈，如果直接整燙拉鏈布邊，會(huì)造成鏈齒彎曲及起拱的現(xiàn)象; 4.對(duì)于要進(jìn)行特殊水洗（指在水溶液中加入一些化學(xué)藥劑）的成衣，一定要先試樣，然后再批量生產(chǎn)。以免成衣或各部件與

6、化學(xué)藥劑產(chǎn)生化學(xué)反映，形成面料變色，或其部件中的金屬物（包括拉鏈的拉頭，金屬齒，成衣上的鈕扣等）被氧化的現(xiàn)象產(chǎn)生。共四十三頁(yè)Zipper use matters needing attention 拉鏈(llin)使用注意事項(xiàng)(2) 5.對(duì)于(duy)在鏈齒表面處理的特殊產(chǎn)品（包括尼龍金齒/銀齒，塑鋼表面燙金/銀等），其產(chǎn)品不能在高溫下水洗或整燙，否則會(huì)出現(xiàn)掉層的現(xiàn)象; 6.對(duì)于拉頭及方塊插鞘/鏈齒（包括金屬與塑膠材質(zhì)），在針車時(shí)，縫紉針或壓腳需注意不用打到拉頭，否則會(huì)出現(xiàn)拉頭扁口或?qū)⒚鄙w打凹后致帽蓋掉的問(wèn)題;如果打到鏈齒或其它塑膠部件，可能會(huì)產(chǎn)生塑膠部件破裂而致掉齒或其它問(wèn)題;共四十三頁(yè)th

7、eory of basic color terms顏色(yns)基本理論What is color ?什么是顏色I(xiàn)lluminant光源(gungyun)Object物體Observer觀察者共四十三頁(yè)Three elements cause the color stimulus三個(gè)因素(yn s)引出了顏色I(xiàn)lluminant光源(gungyun)Object物體Observer觀察者共四十三頁(yè)What is Color什么(shn me)是顏色Color is a sensation that is perceived by the eye and communicated to the

8、brain in the form of nerve pulses. 顏色是一種通過(guò)眼睛視覺(jué)經(jīng)神經(jīng)系統(tǒng)傳遞到大腦的感知 A colored sample can be interpreted differently by different people and is affected by viewing conditions, eye fatigue and color perception skills. 受觀察環(huán)境、眼睛疲勞度和顏色感知能力影響， 一個(gè)顏色試樣由不同的人看會(huì)有不同的結(jié)果Although color perception is subjective, a basic un

9、derstanding of the scientific principles will help us communicate and evaluate color more objectively.盡管顏色感知是主觀的，但一個(gè)基礎(chǔ)理解的科學(xué)原則可以幫助我們更客觀(kgun)地交流和評(píng)估顏色共四十三頁(yè)Illuminant光源(gungyun)Illumination, or light, is essential to experience the sensation of color. When light passes through a transparent material or

10、 a prism, the light is dispersed into the colors of the visible spectrum: violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange, and red.光源，是感知顏色的必備要素。當(dāng)光線通過(guò)一個(gè)透明物質(zhì)或一個(gè)棱鏡(lngjng)，就會(huì)折射出一個(gè)可見(jiàn)光譜：紫、靛、藍(lán)、綠、黃、橙、紅。400nm 450nm 500nm 550nm 600nm 650nm 700nm共四十三頁(yè)The standard primary illuminant is D65 Artificial Daylight. 主光

11、源是D65，人造(rnzo)日光。The secondary illuminant used is TL84 (F11) General store light.副光源是TL84(F11)，普遍的白熾燈光。TL84General store lightArtificialIlluminant光源(gungyun)共四十三頁(yè)Object物體(wt)Here is the simplified model of interaction between light and object: Absorbency, Reflection & Scatter.這是關(guān)于光和物體之間相互作用的簡(jiǎn)化模型：吸收(

12、xshu)、反射、散射。共四十三頁(yè)Observer物體(wt)The act of “seeing” is a combination of the mechanics of optics & psycho-physical aspect of the brain.視覺(jué)行為是光學(xué)和大腦物理(wl)精神分析方面的結(jié)合共四十三頁(yè)Lightness 深淺(shnqin)度Chroma 飽和度Hue 色象Language of color 顏色(yns)語(yǔ)言How to communicate color with others?怎樣溝通語(yǔ)言共四十三頁(yè)Language of Color顏色(yns)語(yǔ)

13、言Color may be described in terms of some internationally adopted systems.顏色可能會(huì)用一些國(guó)際上采用的系統(tǒng)進(jìn)行描述L*C*H*L*: Lightness深淺(shnqin)度 C*:Chroma飽和度 H*: Hue色象L*a*b*L*: Lightness深淺度 a*: Red-Green紅-綠 b*: Blue-Yellow藍(lán)-黃Comment注釋L*: go deeper, go lighter深一點(diǎn)，淺一點(diǎn)C*: go brighter, go duller亮一點(diǎn)，暗一點(diǎn)H*: go red, go yellow,

14、 go blue, go green紅一點(diǎn)，黃一點(diǎn)，藍(lán)一點(diǎn)，綠一點(diǎn)共四十三頁(yè)Lightness (L*) represents the degree of lightness or darkness:A sample may be either lighter or darker than the standard. Dark colors have low values of L*, whereas a perfect white sample would have an L* value of 100.深淺度(L*)代表顏色深和淺的程度：試樣(sh yn)顏色有可能比標(biāo)準(zhǔn)淺了或深了。深顏色

15、降低L*值，可以得到100分L*值的完美白色樣品Dyers use the terms, thinner or fuller which are related to lightness in a complex way.染料員綜合運(yùn)用一些條件來(lái)使顏色的變深或變淺DARKERLIGHTERColor Differences in Lightness (L)Language of Color顏色(yns)語(yǔ)言共四十三頁(yè)Chroma (C*) represents the degree of brightness or saturation:Chroma is defined as the deg

16、ree of color purity, saturation or brilliance for a given color. Samples which have very low chroma, would be either white, grey or black shades. These are sometimes called achromatic.飽和度(C*)顏色亮與暗的濃度：飽和度是用來(lái)評(píng)定顏色色彩的濃度。樣品飽和度往下降(xijing)，就會(huì)變成白色、灰色、或黑色。有時(shí)叫無(wú)色。A sample may be brighter or duller than the sta

17、ndard. Dyers use the terms, brighter or flatter which are related to chroma in a complex way.樣品顏色可能會(huì)比標(biāo)準(zhǔn)亮了或暗了。染料工就會(huì)綜合運(yùn)用一些條件來(lái)使顏色色彩的變亮或變暗一點(diǎn)LESS SATURATEDMORE SATURATEDColor Differences in Chroma (C)Language of Color顏色(yns)語(yǔ)言共四十三頁(yè)Hue (H*) represents the shade or hue of a color:The hue of a color is asso

18、ciated with the dimension of shade or cast of a color such as red, gree, blue, yellow, violet, etc. A sample may be redder, greener, bluer, or yellower then the standard. These are the terms dyers use.色象代表顏色變化的程度：一個(gè)顏色的色象是與顏色的偏向有關(guān)(yugun)，如偏紅、偏綠、偏藍(lán)、偏黃、偏紫等。樣品有可能會(huì)比標(biāo)準(zhǔn)紅了、綠了、藍(lán)了、或黃了，這些是染工搭配染料造成的Color Differ

19、ences in Hue (H)REDYELLOW/REDYELLOWYELLOW/GREENGREENRED/PURPLEPURPLEPURPLE/BLUEBLUEBLUE/GREENLanguage of Color顏色(yns)語(yǔ)言共四十三頁(yè)L*: Lightness深淺(shnqin)度a*: Red-Green紅到綠b*: Blue-Yellow藍(lán)到黃Language of Color顏色(yns)語(yǔ)言共四十三頁(yè)Why do we perceive the color difference for same object while under different environme

20、nt?為什么同一樣物體在不同環(huán)境下我們(w men)會(huì)看到不同的顏色？Metamerism 條件(tiojin)等色（色變） 共四十三頁(yè)Metamerism條件(tiojin)等色（色變） Metamerism occurs when “the colors of two objects are perceived to have the same color under one illuminant such as daylight (CIE D65), but have different colors under a different illuminant, such as a flu

21、orescent bulb (CIE TL84)”. 色變發(fā)生在當(dāng)“兩件物體在一種(y zhn)光源（如日光，CIE D65 ）下所看到的是相同顏色，但是換了另外一種不同的光源（如熒光燈， CIE TL84 ）就看到不同的顏色” D65TL84共四十三頁(yè)Metamerism條件(tiojin)等色（色變）共四十三頁(yè)Color Management General Requirements顏色(yns)管理基本要求adidas Group Color Manual ( May 2009 version 2)1. Adidas的顏色手冊(cè)(shuc) 2. Required instruments

22、(e.g. lighting cabinet, physical master color standard).2. 設(shè)備要求（如燈箱、標(biāo)準(zhǔn)色卡）3. Environment: a dark room without ambient light area.3. 環(huán)境：周圍無(wú)其他光線的暗房4. Qualified colorist.4. 符合條件的對(duì)色員共四十三頁(yè)YKK卡T卡TPX卡TCX卡TN(熒光色)卡WRC(防水(fn shu)有色膜)卡WPC(防水透明膜)卡W&TGroup Color ManualW&T顏色(yns)手冊(cè)共四十三頁(yè)Lighting Cabinet燈箱(dn xin)Wh

23、ats the standard lighting cabinet?什么是標(biāo)準(zhǔn)(biozhn)的燈箱1. Painted in 5574 or N5 用5574或N5油漆3. Light tubes must be replaced every 2,000 hours or 6 months3. 燈管每2000個(gè)小時(shí)或6個(gè)月就要更換4. Maintenance record維護(hù)記錄5. Clean and free from dust干凈無(wú)雜物灰塵2. Fitted with lamps of D65,TL84 and UV.2. 至少3種光源燈管:D65,TL84 和 UV(需辨別熒光時(shí)才用UV)共四十三頁(yè)Environment:環(huán)境a dark room without ambient light area 周圍無(wú)光線(gungxin)的暗房For colorfastness tests only共四十三頁(yè)Qualified colorist合格(hg)的對(duì)色者How t