版權(quán)說明:本文檔由用戶提供并上傳,收益歸屬內(nèi)容提供方,若內(nèi)容存在侵權(quán),請進行舉報或認領
文檔簡介
1、CHAPTER 22Other Fabric Construction Processes2022-2-281WORDS LISTnKey words全部nNew words 2,6,7,9,12,18,20,26,27,31,34,36,57,61,69-71,73,74,82,83,91,100,103,105,115,121,122,124,125,132。2022-2-282nThe five major classifications of fabric construction discussed in this chapter arenmulticomponent fabrics
2、, (多組分織物)nnarrow fabrics, (帶; 狹幅織物)nopen-mesh constructions, (不緊密,稀疏的)nstitch bonding(縫編法)(縫編法), nand tufting. (簇絨)nOf the five, tufting is the most important commercially because of its dominance in carpet and rug production.2022-2-283Multicomponent Fabrics A multicomponent fabric is one in which a
3、t least two layers of material or fabric have been combined to produce a new product with properties significantly different from those of its component parts. The components may be intimately密切地 joined to produce a material from which it is difficult to separate them, or it may be a loosely joined
4、material in which the components retain their original forms. The major multicomponent fabrics are bonded fabrics(粘合粘合織物織物), laminated fabrics(層壓織物)(層壓織物), foam-backed fabrics(泡沫塑料襯里織物)(泡沫塑料襯里織物), and quilted fabrics(衲縫織物)(衲縫織物).2022-2-284Multicomponent Fabricsnbonded fabrics(粘合織物粘合織物), nlaminated f
5、abrics(層壓織物)(層壓織物), nfoam-backed fabrics(泡沫塑料襯里織物(泡沫塑料襯里織物)nquilted fabrics(衲縫織物)(衲縫織物)2022-2-285BONDED AND LAMINATED FABRICS A bonded fabric is a layered structure in which a face, or shell, fabric is joined to a backing fabric 襯里,底布with an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness
6、of the combined fabrics. Such structures are used for design interest as well as fabric stabilization. The iron-on interfacings(襯(襯頭頭放在外層織物和襯里之間,起加固或硬挺作用放在外層織物和襯里之間,起加固或硬挺作用-粘合襯)粘合襯) discussed in Chapter 21, as well as some of the artificial leather products, could be classified as bonded fabrics.20
7、22-2-286nBonded fabric2022-2-287 The bonding may be done with an aqueous(水的,水成的) acrylic adhesive (Figure 22.1), a latex(植植化化乳汁,乳乳汁,乳膠,橡膠)膠,橡膠) adhesive such as an acrylate(丙稀酸鹽,丙稀酸脂), a vinyl chloride (乙烯基) or acetate (此處省略用法,即vinyl acetate 醋酸乙烯脂), or a thermosetting(熱硬化性的,熱固性的)(熱硬化性的,熱固性的) resin.
8、2022-2-288 The end-use performance of the bonded product depends on the strength of the bond formed between the two fabric layers. A fabric resembling woven double cloth can be produced by joining two face fabrics to provide a reversible fabric. In some instances, a lining fabric is bonded to a face
9、 fabric to simplify garment construction. Scrim fabrics(稀松窗簾用布,平紋棉麻織物) such as tricot knits(特里科經(jīng)編織物;經(jīng)平組織針) and gauze(薄紗,醫(yī)用紗布) are also bonded to face fabrics to provide stability to the face fabric. This process has been used on loosely woven mohair馬海毛 fabrics and on fabrics constructed from bulky n
10、ovelty yarns, to prevent yarn slippage and fabric distortion(扭曲,變形,曲解,失真)(扭曲,變形,曲解,失真).2022-2-289nLaminated fabrics combine layers of fabric and foam. The product may be a single layer of fabric bonded to a foam layer (a foam-backed fabric泡沫塑料襯里織物泡沫塑料襯里織物), or it may be a sandwich laminate, in which
11、 the foam layer is bonded between two fabric layers. The primary purpose of the foam layer is to provide insulation for warmth, and the end uses for such products include cold-weather apparel and insulated window coverings. The completed fabric is often bulky, with poor draping qualities.2022-2-2810
12、nlaminated fabrics (foam-backed)2022-2-2811 The foam may also serve as the adhesive agent (Figure 22.2 ). The surface of the foam is heated to provide a tacky(有些粘的) surface that will adhere to the face fabric(s), and then the layers are pressed together and allowed to cool and cure(v.治愈,治療,硫化治愈,治療,硫
13、化 n.治愈,痊愈治愈,痊愈 硫化硫化 熟化熟化 固化)固化). Adhesives similar to those used in fabric-to-fabric bonding are also used. Again, the end-use performance of the laminate depends on the strength of the fabric-to-foam bond.2022-2-2812nLaminated neoprene(氯?。ǘ┫鹉z) diving suit2022-2-2813QUILTED FABRICS衲縫織物衲縫織物nTraditi
14、onal QuiltingnTrapunto:提花墊緯凸紋布的一種衍縫物,圖案是用兩排或兩排以上的平縫針縫出的,然后再在底面加入襯墊物,以達到凸起的效果nOutline QuiltingnChemical QuiltingnUltrasonic Bonding2022-2-2814nTwo or more fabric layers may be joined by stitching to produce a quilted fabric. The term stitching should be broadly defined to include the intermittent(間歇的
15、,斷斷續(xù)續(xù)的) joining of fabric, by hand or machine sewing, chemical point bonding, and ultrasonic point bonding(超聲波點粘合). Fabrics quilted with both simple and more complex patterns are available.2022-2-2815Traditional Quilting The traditional quilts stitched by hand had three layers: a face fabric, a fibe
16、r batt(棉絮) or feather(n.翎毛,輕的東西,羽毛翎毛,輕的東西,羽毛 vi.長羽毛長羽毛 vt. 用羽毛裝用羽毛裝飾,射掉(飛禽)的羽毛)飾,射掉(飛禽)的羽毛) filling for warmth, and a backing fabric. Hand-sewn quilts are still produced as craft(工藝,手藝)(工藝,手藝) items and machine-sewn products are also available (Figure 22.3). Such products are used primarily for bed
17、coverings, but quilted apparel, upholstery fabric, and items such as pot-holders罐蓋 are available as well. 2022-2-2816Trapunto提花墊緯凸紋布nTrapunto is a type of quilting in which a design or pattern is outlined with stitches and then stuffed with fibers (or fiberfill纖維填塞物) to form a high relief地貌,輪廓突出 eff
18、ect. Such designs are periodically fashionable in apparel and upholstery.2022-2-2817trapunto2022-2-2818Outline Quilting Outline quilting is a technique that stitches an outline around a printed design motif(主題,圖形) to form a quilted fabric. Custom(定制的,定做的)(定制的,定做的) bedspreads 床單,床罩and comforters(羊毛圍巾
19、,蓋被(羊毛圍巾,蓋被) of chintz(印花棉布,亦作chints) or other printed fabrics often are made in this manner. Outline quilting is also called custom quilting.2022-2-2819Chemical Quilting Quilted products can also be produced by joining fabric layers with an adhesive or a thermoplastic bonding agent. This process ca
20、lled chemical quilting, is more popular for joining two fabrics than for joining three layers. The trade name Chemstitch(化學縫編)(化學縫編) is used for a process that produces a fabric by joining two fabrics with different thermal stabilities. The two layers are spot welded點焊接 to produce a design, then sub
21、jected to heat, which shrinks one layer more than the other and produces a fabric with a rippled波紋,起波紋or crinkled 皺紋,起皺surface (Figure 22.4).2022-2-2820Ultrasonic BondingnUltrasonic energy can be used to join thermoplastic materials and produce a product similar to machine-stitched quilting. The tra
22、de name Pinsonic is used for one such process. Ultrasonic energy is mechanical vibratory(振動的) energy produced at frequencies beyond the level of audible sound, usually 20 to 40 kHz. The vibration produces enough intermolecular mechanical stress to cause polymer melting and provide a tacky有些粘的 surfac
23、e that can adhere to another surface. The two layers are pressed together in a pattern that can be made to resemble real stitches( Figure 22.5). Ultrasonic bonding can be accomplished at high speeds and is less damaging to fibers than thermal bonding.2022-2-2821nUltrasonic Bonding打孔2022-2-2822nMattr
24、ess pads 床墊and bedspreads床單,床罩 are frequently produced by ultrasonic quilting. Other applications include upholstery fabrics, quilted apparel fabrics, and nonwoven fabric webs for some industrial markets.2022-2-2823Narrow Fabrics帶,狹幅織物nNarrow fabrics are broadly defined as those less than 300 mm (12
25、in.) in width. They can be produced by braiding編,編織,編帶, knitting, waving, or any other fabric-forming technique. Some narrow fabrics are produced in narrow widths, others are made from wide fabrics cut to the desired widths. Narrow fabric products include braids編織物, Ribbons緞帶,絲帶, tapes帶子, and webbin
26、gs帶子,邊帶,厚實結(jié)實的帶狀織物. 2022-2-2824BRAIDED FABRICS Braided fabrics編織物 are characterized by a diagonal對角的,對角線的傾斜的,斜線的 surface effect, produced by plaiting(把打成辮) three or more yarns that originate引起,發(fā)起 from a single location and lie parallel before the intertwining occurs. The yarns intertwine(使使糾纏,糾纏,使使纏繞
27、)纏繞) on a diagonal plane斜面 from one side to the other, producing a column of horizontal Vs. Braids are made in both flat and circular forms.2022-2-2825End Uses Circular braids appear in such everyday items as shoelaces (鞋帶)(鞋帶) and insulation for electric wires, but braiding techniques are also used
28、 to produce rocket nozzles火箭筒子噴嘴, parachute cords降落傘, and structural components for other industrial products. Flat braids are used for such products as decorative trims華麗的服裝 and industrial belting, where a high degree of flexibility is required.2022-2-2826Open-Mesh(網(wǎng)眼) ConstructionsnTextiles charac
29、terized by an open-mesh construction can be classified as laces 飾帶,花邊緞帶or nets. Nets網(wǎng)格 are open-mesh fabrics網(wǎng)眼with large geometric interstices(間隙,裂縫) between the yarns (Figure 22.6). Laces consist of a network of yarns formed into intricate(復雜的花樣), usually curved designs (Figure 22.7) The distinctio
30、ns between the two products are not obvious, and there is some overlap in the construction techniques used for them. 2022-2-2827nNETnLACEnEMBROIDERY2022-2-2828NET Early nets were made by hand-knotting yarns at each point of intersection交叉點,交集十字路口 to produce a specific geometric pattern. Prior to 180
31、9, nets were made by hand, but in that year a new machine produced knotted nets 打結(jié)網(wǎng)so like hand-knotted fabrics that few people could distinguish between them. The comparatively large mesh網(wǎng)眼 of knotted nets does not slip, spread, or distort during use. Knotted nets are used for hammocks(吊床)(吊床) and
32、fishing nets.2022-2-2829 In recent years most lightweight nets have been constructed on either tricot(特里科經(jīng)編織物;經(jīng)平組織針) or raschel(拉舍爾) knitting machines, so the yarns are only interlooped(成圈)(成圈) and not knotted. These knitted nets(針織網(wǎng)眼織物)(針織網(wǎng)眼織物) lack the stability of those constructed by knotting. T
33、heir primary use is in apparel, although some used as decorative window hangings. 2022-2-2830 Nets are classified as bobbinet(六角網(wǎng)眼(六角網(wǎng)眼織物,珠羅紗)織物,珠羅紗) fishnet, filet(方眼花邊網(wǎng)(方眼花邊網(wǎng)), maline細絲網(wǎng), or tulle(經(jīng)編六角網(wǎng)眼織物角網(wǎng)眼織物). Bobbinet is a hexagonal六角 mesh that may be very thin and transparent (bridal illusion
34、新娘透明面紗) or fairly coarse and opaque不透明 (casement cloth), depending on the yarn count of the material used to produce it. Most bobbinet sold in the United States is produced in England and France. 2022-2-2831nTulle(經(jīng)編六角網(wǎng)眼織物角網(wǎng)眼織物) is a fine hexagonal net made from silk or nylon yarns. It is very simil
35、ar to bobbinet(六角網(wǎng)眼織物,珠羅紗)六角網(wǎng)眼織物,珠羅紗) but lighter in weight than bridal illusion新娘透明面紗; some references do not separate bobbinet and tulle. Fishnet(網(wǎng)眼布,漁網(wǎng)) is a coarse open-mesh construction created by knotting the mesh in a manner similar to a fishermans knot. Filet(方眼花邊網(wǎng)) net is made with a square
36、 mesh, and maline net(馬林絲紗羅), used in millinery(女帽), is a fine, open diamond(菱形) shape with hexagonal holes.2022-2-2832nTulle2022-2-2833nBridal illusion: A very fine, soft form of nylon tulle that is made specifically for bridal veils. It is available in a wide range of colors, and its the tradition
37、al veiling for brides in the United States. Silk tulle is available upon request. Below is an example of nylon bridal illusion worn as a blusher. 2022-2-2834nFishnet2022-2-2835nfilet方眼花邊網(wǎng)2022-2-2836LACE Lace is an openwork fabric(透空織物)(透空織物) consisting of a network of yarns formed into intricate des
38、igns. Lace may be hand or machine made, and intricate patterns can be produced by either technique. Both narrow and wide lace fabrics are available. The edges of the fabric may be straight or curved.2022-2-2837 Handmade laces are created by manipulating(熟練地操作,使用機器等,熟練地操作,巧妙地處理) a single yarn or grou
39、ps of yarns with bobbins, needles, and hooks to produce intricate stitch formations. The major classifications of handmade laces are bobbin lace(梭結(jié)花邊), crochet(鉤編), embroidered lace繡花邊, needlepoint lace(針繡花邊), and tatting(梭織,梭結(jié)花邊).2022-2-2838 In 1808 John Heathcote completed a machine that manipulat
40、ed yarns in three dimensions to produce knotted net. By 1813 John Leavers introduced a machine capable of interknotting(把(把結(jié)合在一起,打結(jié),結(jié)合在一起,打結(jié),把把連在一起)連在一起) yarns into complex designs. By 1837 Leavers and his coworkers had incorporated the principle of the Jacquard attachment to produce a wide variety
41、of lace designs.2022-2-2839EMBROIDERYnEmbroidery is the application of yarn, thread. or floss(繡花絲線), to produce a design that stands in relief突起 on the ground fabric: it ornaments 裝飾物an already existing fabric with needle work. Hand embroidery is still produced as a craft, but most embroidered fabri
42、cs are produced by machines somewhat similar to those used for creating laces (see Figure 22.9).2022-2-2840 The schiffli席佛里刺繡機,飛梭刺繡機 embroidery machine was developed in the mid-1800s. Its name is derived from the appearance of its bobbin, or shuttle, which is shaped like a small boat (Schiff is Germ
43、an for “ship” or “boat”). Embroidery can be applied to fabric of almost any weight, and the range of patterns that can be reproduced is almost endless. Some of the products produced are appliques(貼花,嵌花,加縫刺繡), emblems(徽章), eyelet(眼孔,孔眼,網(wǎng)眼,梭眼)(眼孔,孔眼,網(wǎng)眼,梭眼), trapunto提花墊緯紗凸紋布, and Venetian lace.(威尼斯花邊)作
44、業(yè):閱讀以下 4252 PPT內(nèi)容2022-2-2841Stitch-Bonded Fabrics 縫編織物nStitch-bonded fabrics are fabrics in which fibers,. yarns, fibers and yarns, or fibers and substrate fabric are held together by stitching with some type of thread or yarn or by chemical bonding. Heinrich Mauerberger developed the first stitch-b
45、onded structures in East Germany in the late 1940s after seeing his wife darn(織補) a tablecloth by running it under her sewing machine several times in the warp and filling directions. He patented his machine process in 1948, calling it Malimo. The machine could produce fabric 20 times faster than co
46、nventional methods of the time.2022-2-2842 Several methods of producing stitch-bonds fabrics have been commercialized, but they have not achieved the popularity that was predicted for them in the 1960s. The products available today can be broadly categorized as flat fabrics, which somewhat resemble
47、conventional fabrics; pile fabrics; and fiber batts制氈毛層. 2022-2-2843 The machines, produced in East Germany and Czechoslovakia, can be grouped into three distinct types. The first stitch-bonds fabrics by sewing with thread to join yarns; the second stitch-bonds fibers together without the use of yar
48、n or thread; and the third stitch-bonds using a prefabricated(預制)預制) fabric substrate and stitching loops into the surface with threads, yarns, or slivers.2022-2-2844FABRIC CONSTRUCTRUTION PROCESSnFabrics Made with Yarns and Threads2022-2-2845 Malimo The Malimo process stitches over two sheets of ya
49、rns that have been laid down perpendicular to each other; one yarn set is lying in the warp direction, and the other in the filling direction. The stitching, which resembles a chain stitch(鏈式針跡,鏈式線跡,絞花組織)(鏈式針跡,鏈式線跡,絞花組織), holds the yarns in position. In a modification of the process, a single sheet
50、of filling yarns is used, and the stitching yarns form the warp. New machines have been made that use two guide bars, which permits greater design capabilities. Figure 22.10 diagrams the basic steps in the manufacture of Malimo fabrics, and Figure 22.11 is a diagram of a typical Malimo stitch-bonded
51、 fabric.2022-2-2846Fabrics with a Preconstructed Base Malipol The Malipol construction uses a prefabricated fabric as the base: yarns are fed to this to form a pile surface. Figure 22.14 diagrams the Malipol process. The pile stitched can be short or long, can be made with fine to heavy yarn or thread, and can be left uncut or cut and sheared. Fabrics can be made to resemble terry cloth(毛(毛圈織物)圈織物), blankets, plush fabrics such as veloures, a
溫馨提示
- 1. 本站所有資源如無特殊說明,都需要本地電腦安裝OFFICE2007和PDF閱讀器。圖紙軟件為CAD,CAXA,PROE,UG,SolidWorks等.壓縮文件請下載最新的WinRAR軟件解壓。
- 2. 本站的文檔不包含任何第三方提供的附件圖紙等,如果需要附件,請聯(lián)系上傳者。文件的所有權(quán)益歸上傳用戶所有。
- 3. 本站RAR壓縮包中若帶圖紙,網(wǎng)頁內(nèi)容里面會有圖紙預覽,若沒有圖紙預覽就沒有圖紙。
- 4. 未經(jīng)權(quán)益所有人同意不得將文件中的內(nèi)容挪作商業(yè)或盈利用途。
- 5. 人人文庫網(wǎng)僅提供信息存儲空間,僅對用戶上傳內(nèi)容的表現(xiàn)方式做保護處理,對用戶上傳分享的文檔內(nèi)容本身不做任何修改或編輯,并不能對任何下載內(nèi)容負責。
- 6. 下載文件中如有侵權(quán)或不適當內(nèi)容,請與我們聯(lián)系,我們立即糾正。
- 7. 本站不保證下載資源的準確性、安全性和完整性, 同時也不承擔用戶因使用這些下載資源對自己和他人造成任何形式的傷害或損失。
最新文檔
- 2025年金融資產(chǎn)打包收購合同模板3篇
- 二零二五年度門窗安裝工程環(huán)保評估合同8篇
- 二零二五版民辦學校校長任期學生心理健康聘用合同4篇
- 2024版商業(yè)保理合同
- 二零二五版園林景觀綠化苗木種植與生態(tài)旅游開發(fā)合同3篇
- 二零二五年度綠色交通項目融資擔保借款合同樣本4篇
- 2025年度智能化大棚租賃合同示范文本3篇
- 二零二五年度門窗行業(yè)節(jié)能減排技術(shù)改造項目投資合同4篇
- 二零二五年度房屋買賣定金及生態(tài)補償合同3篇
- 二零二五年度離婚后財產(chǎn)分割與債權(quán)債務處理合同4篇
- 使用錯誤評估報告(可用性工程)模版
- 公司章程(二個股東模板)
- GB/T 19889.7-2005聲學建筑和建筑構(gòu)件隔聲測量第7部分:樓板撞擊聲隔聲的現(xiàn)場測量
- 世界奧林匹克數(shù)學競賽6年級試題
- 藥用植物學-課件
- 文化差異與跨文化交際課件(完整版)
- 國貨彩瞳美妝化消費趨勢洞察報告
- 云南省就業(yè)創(chuàng)業(yè)失業(yè)登記申請表
- UL_標準(1026)家用電器中文版本
- 國網(wǎng)三個項目部標準化手冊(課堂PPT)
- 快速了解陌生行業(yè)的方法論及示例PPT課件
評論
0/150
提交評論