《QC看貨手冊》word版

1、DEGAS INVESTMENTS LIMITEDQ.C看貨手冊DATE: 2004/8/9INTRODUTION: GARMENT INSPECTION ( 制衣成品檢查程序)An In-Line Inspection of work in process must be conducted, as well as a final inspection.中期檢查的程序跟末期檢查大致上相同，但要跟進(jìn)中期的檢查報(bào)告要點(diǎn)。Before starting in-line inspection, the following check should be carried our first:在查中期時(shí)

2、，應(yīng)先查以下幾點(diǎn)：-checking fabric-查布-check all colorways of order-查布色-check Emb/Print (if any)-査車花/印花（如果有）-check stretch strength-查拉力是否接受-check thread color-查線色-check accessory/trims查物料-check weight of knit garment, if it is a knit garment-如果是針織衫，查重量-check guage-查針數(shù)-check seam strength-查骨位是否合適Garment Inspec

3、tion will include the areas of :成衣上檢查包括范圍：Measurement ( 尺寸 )Workmanship （手工）Labeling （ 商標(biāo) ） Packaging （包裝）AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) guidelines will be used to determine whether a sample lot is accepted or rejected.用標(biāo)準(zhǔn)指示決定來接受或拒接受。DEFINITION OF MAJOR DEFECTS主要疵點(diǎn)定義Any defect that affects the garme

4、nts appearance, serviceability, or wearability to a degree that it should be objectionable to the retail of ultimate customer, and is therefore, capable of becoming a return garment. 任何影響衣服外觀，適用或穿著性的疵點(diǎn)導(dǎo)致顧客零售上拒接受，因此而退貨。 DEFINITION OF MINOR DEFECTS 次要疵點(diǎn)定義Any defect that is not in accordance with speci

5、fied methods, construction specifications or sundry specifications that would not be noticed by and would not be objectionable to the retail or ultimate customer, and is therefore, not capable of becoming a return garment.任何缺點(diǎn)是沒有祥盡方式，整體上的或成品上外觀的缺點(diǎn)而形成退貨，不能接受。 DEFINITION OF DEFECTS 疵點(diǎn)定義Any deficient a

6、rea of fabric, assembly, pressing, cutting and / or construction of a garment that adversely affects the appearance, wearability or serviceability. Defects can occur in the following area:任何布的缺點(diǎn)范圍，組合，熨，裁或組織感到成衣上的外觀穿著或服飾上，缺點(diǎn)范圍包括Fabric (布)Cutting （裁）Assembly （ 組合 ）Washing （ 洗水） Pressing （ 整熨 ）Final Pa

7、cking （ 最后包裝材料）Rescreen （ 包裝底面加紙隔板）IN-LINE GARMENT INSPECTION ( 中期成衣檢查 ) Purpose of In-Line Inspection( 中期檢查目標(biāo) )The purpose of inspection while work is in process is to identify and resolve issues in garment manufacture before they result in garment rejects, when the whole garment has finished produ

8、ction,.檢查目標(biāo)進(jìn)行時(shí)，廠方要知道檢查報(bào)告上的不接受程度,在生產(chǎn)未完成之前就要解決問題。It is important at this stage for quality inspectors to work with the factory supervisors and operators in order to insure quality from the beginning of the manufacturing process. Lets get it right the first time!這是對(duì)檢查員和廠方負(fù)責(zé)人進(jìn)行的質(zhì)量控制，讓我們第一時(shí)間去做。The Degas

9、Quality Inspector must document all discrepancies on the Inspection Report, and review the Inspection Report with the Factory Manager as well as the Reflex Quality Control Supervisor and Merchandiser Manager.檢查員必須查閱文件上的細(xì)節(jié)和檢查上的缺點(diǎn)，要和廠方改善質(zhì)量和報(bào)告給驗(yàn)貨主管及跟單經(jīng)理。The Factory Manager should receive a copy of the

10、Inspection Report and should sign a copy acknowledging its receipt.廠方負(fù)責(zé)人一定要有一份檢查報(bào)告副本和有廠方簽署。Copies of all Inspection Reports must be filed in the Quality Control Inspection folder for the Reflex Production Order.合同上一定要有一份檢查副本和質(zhì)量控制也要存一份檢查報(bào)告。All discrepancies discovered during In-Line Inspection must b

11、e repaired and must be reviewed again during Final Inspection.所有中期檢查后的缺點(diǎn)一定要在末期檢查之前修改好。 Fabric Inspection at Manufacturing Factory ( 在廠方檢查布料)When fabric is delivered to the Factory that will be Manufacturing Degas garments, it must be inspected by the Factorys Staff using the Four Point System.當(dāng)布料送到工

12、廠預(yù)備做貨時(shí)，廠方人員要跟上述的四個(gè)要點(diǎn)檢查。Degas will not conduct fabric inspection unless requested to do so by the Manufacturing Factory. The Reflex Quality Inspector should, however, audit the factorys quality control procedures.除非有必要，否則不會(huì)引進(jìn)布料到工廠，公司檢查員只有跟廠方的進(jìn)行程度。 Sample Size Guidelines for In-Line Inspection（ 中期檢查目標(biāo)

13、數(shù)量）If all sizes and colours are not available at the time of In-Line Inspection, then as many sizes and colour as possible should be inspected.如果在中期檢查時(shí)，只有部分的顏色和數(shù)量，則盡可能地多查一些尺寸和數(shù)量。 The quantity inspected by size and colour should be noted on the Inspection Report. 檢查的數(shù)量和顏色必然要記錄在報(bào)告上。 Measurement Guidel

14、ines For In-Line Inspection ( 中期檢查上的尺碼目標(biāo)指示) Measure all measurement points given in the garment specification on at least one garment of the sample. 檢查所有尺碼和最低要每碼有一件衣服要量度。 Therefore, measure at least the Major Measurement point on the balance of the garments. 所以最低限度有一個(gè)平均尺碼在報(bào)告上看到。All Point out of tole

15、rance must be reported immediately to the Factory Manager for repair and prompt resolution.所有尺碼上的要點(diǎn)立即要通知廠方負(fù)責(zé)人去修改。 Workmanship Guidelines for In-Line Inspection（中期檢查手工上的目標(biāo)指示）The following guidelines should be observed for In-Line Inspection of garment workmanship:以下目標(biāo)指示手工上的檢查：Use the Major / Minor De

16、fect Guidelines found in this manual for the particular garment type being inspected.用這本檢查指南上的指示來用嚴(yán)重/不嚴(yán)重去檢查衣服上的細(xì)節(jié)。The same sample lot used for measurement Inspection can be used for workmanship evaluation.檢查數(shù)量尺碼和手工質(zhì)量相同。Four of the same type of Minor Defect counts as one Major Defect. For example:四個(gè)普

17、通的缺點(diǎn)當(dāng)作一個(gè)嚴(yán)重的缺點(diǎn)。例如：Four oil spots under 1/2” in diameter found in Zone B on a single pair of pants counts as a Major Defect and, therefore, a garment rejection.四個(gè)油污少過1/2 寸面積在圖中B 部位且在一件衣服上，視為嚴(yán)重而不接受。If the four oil spots are found on two, three, or four garments, this will count as one Major Defect for

18、AQL purposes. The garments may be acceptable, however, after spots are removed by the factory.如果四個(gè)油污是在2，3 或4 件衣服上，而當(dāng)作一件嚴(yán)重處理，如是的話，依照AQC的指示上接受，當(dāng)然，要在工廠去除污點(diǎn)之后。One Major Defect equals one garment reject.一件嚴(yán)重的缺點(diǎn)代表衣服上的退貨。2）FINAL INSPECTION ( 末期檢查 ) 2.1 Purpose of Final Inspection ( 末期的檢查指示 ) No order may s

19、hip without before passing final inspection. Final Inspection includes evaluation of workmanship, measurement, labeling and packaging. 沒有一個(gè)合同是不需要檢查，末期檢查包括手工，尺寸和包裝。 2.2 Final Inspection Process （ 末期檢查程序 ） The Final Inspection Process is as follows: 以下是末期檢查的程序： The Quality Control file for the order m

20、ust be reviewed, including the Purchase Order, Garment Specification, and In-Line Inspection Report.在檢查前一定要看回中期的檢查報(bào)告記錄和包括尺碼表。All defects discovered during the In-Line Inspection had to be corrected.所有檢查看在中期的報(bào)告上是否有修改。Final Inspection of Garments may begin when at least 80% of finished merchandise is

21、packed in cartons.在末期的檢查貨物一定要有80% 完成包裝好。The Degas Quality Inspector must document the Final Inspection on the Inspection Report Form.檢查員一定要看清楚文件上的和做好檢查報(bào)告。The Factory Manager should receive a copy of the Inspection Report and should sign a copy acknowledging its receipt.廠方負(fù)責(zé)人要有一份檢查副本和要簽回一份檢查報(bào)告。2.3 If

22、 An Order Is Rejected（如果合同不接受）The Degas Inspector must immediately contact the Quality Control Supervisor or Merchandising Manager as well as the Factory Manager.檢查員要立即報(bào)告上級(jí)和跟單員及廠方負(fù)責(zé)人。The Quality Control Supervisor or Merchandising Manager must immediately notify the senior Merchandising Manager or D

23、irector responsible for the order.檢查部負(fù)責(zé)人或跟單經(jīng)理要立刻通知高級(jí)跟單經(jīng)理或董事處理這合同。The Quality Control Supervisor may require a more extensive inspection of the order. This should be done only with the factorys participation and is the order can be repaired and shipped within the delivery requirements.檢查部經(jīng)理可要求延長檢查合同，

24、但要和廠方研討和得到船期可延長。2.4 Sample Size Guidelines For Final Inspection（末期檢查數(shù)量指示）During Final Inspection, workmanship and measurement of the garments must be examined. The number of garments that should be examined depends upon the size of the order.當(dāng)末期檢查，手工和尺碼要檢定及合同上的數(shù)量。The following ( Figure 1) should be

25、used as guideline for determining Final Inspection Sample Size:A Q L LEVEL ( 查貨的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)規(guī)格 )LOT SIZEP.O 數(shù)目SAMPLING SIZE抽查數(shù)目MAJOR 嚴(yán)重AQL MAX.(2.5)MINOR 輕微（普通）AQL MAX(4.0)51 - 90201191 - 1502012151 -2803223281 -5005035501 - 120080571201 -32001257103201 - 10000200101410001 - 35000315142135001 - 15000050021211

26、50001 -5000005002121500001-OR MORE5002121SECOND INSPECTION ( A.Q.L LEVEL I NORMAL )LOT SIZEP.O 數(shù)目SAMPLING SIZE抽查數(shù)目MAJOR 嚴(yán)重A.Q.L MAX (2.5)MINOR 輕微（普通）A.Q.L MAX(4.0)51 - 9050091 - 150501151 - 2802011281 - 5002012501 - 120032231201 - 320050353201 - 10000805710001 - 3500012571035001 - 1500002001014Figur

27、e 1, Final Inspection Sample Size and AQL Level.指示 末期檢查數(shù)量和標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。 Remarks: Four (4 ) Minor equal to one ( 1 ) Major四個(gè)普通的代表一個(gè)嚴(yán)重缺點(diǎn)。The above figure provide the AQL Standard for accepting or rejecting the sample batch:上述目標(biāo)指示AQC標(biāo)準(zhǔn)接受和不接受數(shù)量一組表。The number appearing in the accept column reflect the maximum numb

28、er of rejects for AQL Level in order to accept the sample.數(shù)量顯示合同上的接受量和超過不接受的接受數(shù)目。The number appearing in the reject column reflect the minimum number of rejects for AQL Level in order to reject the sample.數(shù)量顯示合同上的不接受數(shù)和最少的超過AQL的合同不接受數(shù)目。Once the appropriate sample size has been determined, the Degas i

29、nspector should select sample garments by randomly opening closed cartons.從一決定性的數(shù)量目標(biāo)來決定檢查員要開箱抽查貨物。The sample must be evenly distributed across all sizes and colours in the order. This will necessitate random selection of several cartons for smaller orders, in order to have a representative sample of

30、 all sizes and colours for the order.檢查數(shù)目要經(jīng)過合同上的顏色及數(shù)量，分得令衡量抽查合同上的細(xì)數(shù)。If the number of reject garment is equal to or greater than the sample rejection number for the AQL Level, then the lot will be rejected.如數(shù)量上的拒受數(shù)目或拒受數(shù)超過AQL的指示目標(biāo)，這合同不會(huì)接受。2.5 Measurement Guidelines For Final Inspection（末期尺碼指示檢查）Measur

31、e all measurement points given in the garment specification on at least one garment of the sample.檢查所有尺碼而最少一件是近貨辦的要求。 Thereafter, measure at least the Major measurement points on the balance of the garments in the sample. 之后， 檢查最少于一件是嚴(yán)重的跟辦不同的尺碼。The Major measurement points will be defined by the Qua

32、lity Control Supervisor.嚴(yán)重的尺碼要點(diǎn)決定于檢查部經(jīng)理。Record on the Inspection Report all points of measure that are out of tolerance as well as the amount by which those points are out of tolerance.檢查報(bào)告上的尺碼超乎檢查指示和數(shù)量超過限制量。Inaccuracy of each shipment packing should be 0%, otherwise shipment will be rejected if the

33、 inaccuracy of label and packing is over 0% inspector should request factory to check all the garments again before another Final Inspection is conducted.如有不正確的包裝，要求廠方重做，另安排下次檢查。LABEL GUIDELINING FOR FINAL INSPECTION（末期商標(biāo)檢查指示）The following guidelines should be observed for Final Inspection of garmen

34、t labelling:以下是末期的商標(biāo)檢查指示：Verify the correctness of the care and content label by comparing the language on the label to that on the purchase order.檢查正確的商標(biāo)和成份和比較合同上的要求。The placement of all labels must be according to the garment specification.商標(biāo)位置一定要依照指定上的位置尺碼。PACKAGING GUIDELINES FOR FINAL INSPECTIO

35、N（末期包裝指示）The following guidelines should be observed for Final Inspection of garment Packaging:以下是末期成衣上的包裝指示：Verify the accuracy and completeness of the carton markings, including the Degas Purchase Order Number, Articleor cataloge Number, Quantity, Size, Colour, and .檢查卡通箱上的完全正確印法，包括公司合同上的號(hào)碼，款號(hào)，數(shù)量，

36、碼號(hào)，顏色。Only the cartons handled for Final Inspection need to be inspected.單獨(dú)末期檢查卡通上的需要。For Mail Order customer: no mix colour/size in a carton郵購單不能單色單碼GARMENT DEFECTS: ( WOVEN ) STITICHING DEFECTS:Hole of any size, repaired or not Major衣服上有洞或針洞 嚴(yán)重Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4” Minor重車線超1/4寸，線頭不超1

37、/4寸 普通Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4”(collar area) Major領(lǐng)范圍線頭不超1/4寸 嚴(yán)重Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/2” ( inside garment) Minor衣服內(nèi)線頭 普通 Attached Sewing Threads over 1/2” ( outside garment) Major衣服外線頭不能超1/2寸 嚴(yán)重Attached Threads under 2” ( inside garment) Minor衣服內(nèi)線頭短過2寸 普通Run Off Stitches up to 1/4

38、” ( inside garment) Minor車縫漏位1/4寸（衣服內(nèi)） 普通 Run Off Stitches over 1/4” ( outside garment) Major車縫漏位1/4寸（衣服外） 嚴(yán)重Needle chews up to 1 per inch Major重針位線超1寸 嚴(yán)重Margin Variation, Needle to Needle or Needle to Edge up to 1/4” Minor針線位走斜1/4寸 普通Margin Variation, Needle to Needle or Needle to Edge over 1/4” Ma

39、jor針線位走斜超過1/4寸 嚴(yán)重Single Needle Lockstitch with up to one skip per inch Minor鎖線跳針位 普通1 or More Skip on Chain Stitch, 2 or More Skips per inch on lockstitch Major鎖線跳針位超過2 針 嚴(yán)重Stitch Count Variation over two skips per inch Major平車針位跳超過2針在1寸內(nèi) 嚴(yán)重Raw Edge, Open Seam Major爆邊或爆口 嚴(yán)重Sewn in pleat up to 1/8” M

40、ajor車縫上有褶位1/8寸 嚴(yán)重GARMENT DEFECTS: ( KNITS) 針織Hole, Dropped Stitch, not repaired Major破孔，空線。 嚴(yán)重Improper repair slightly Major不正確的修改。 嚴(yán)重 Attached linking threads Minor衣服上的連續(xù)線。 普通Attached threads under 2” ( inside garment) Minor縫線不超過2寸（衣服內(nèi)） 普通 Skip stitch over 1” or any skip in a chainstitch Major任何的跳線

41、。 嚴(yán)重 Raw edge or open seam Major 破口或爆線 嚴(yán)重Incorrect tension Major不正確的彈力位置。 嚴(yán)重 Misaligned inserted, pockets gussets, over 1/4” ( Sweater) Major縫袋線松位超過1/4寸。 嚴(yán)重Biased pattern over 1” side to side Major圖樣偏斜不正中超過1寸。 嚴(yán)重Pattern and garment asymmetric more than 1” ( Sweater) Major 圖樣織位超1寸 （ 毛衣 ） 嚴(yán)重Needle per

42、foration Major衣服上的針孔。 嚴(yán)重Pull loops, snags Major衣服上的紗織成的大細(xì)圈，駁位。 普通Any missed linking / looping more than 1 per inch ( Sweater ) Major漏縫位超標(biāo)準(zhǔn)寸。（ 毛衣） 嚴(yán)重Mismatched stripes on side seam up to 1/2” Major衣服上條子不對(duì)稱。 嚴(yán)重Mismatched plackets on side seam over 1/4” Major衣服上筒位不對(duì)稱。 嚴(yán)重Shaded parts Major不同色的位置。 嚴(yán)重Any

43、pattern errors ( Sweater ) Major 毛衣的圖樣不對(duì)稱。 嚴(yán)重Barre, bent needle, slubs up to size of loop Major死痕，車縫走彎，紗頭。 嚴(yán)重Slubs larger than loop 3GG 5GG 7GG up ( Sweater) Major毛頭粗大超過3，5，7GG。 （ 毛衣） 嚴(yán)重Knots in yarn ends up to 1/2” ( Sweater ) Major毛紗駁口毛頭1/2 寸。 （ 毛衣） 嚴(yán)重Knots in yarn ends over 1/2” ( Sweater ) Major

44、毛紗駁口超過1/2 寸。 （毛衣） 嚴(yán)重Poor press Major不好的熨工 嚴(yán)重Cleaning gun rings Major衣服上的噴槍孔 （ 打污漬的槍） 嚴(yán)重Broken stitches Major斷線 （車縫位） 嚴(yán)重Oil, stains Major油污漬。 嚴(yán)重Incorrect size label / Care label Major不正確的嘜頭位置（商標(biāo)） 嚴(yán)重Incorrect polybag / Wrong ticket Major正確的膠袋，掛牌。 嚴(yán)重SIZE MEASUREMENT TOLERANCE ( WOVEN )PANTS / SHORTS TO

45、LERANCE MORE LESSWaist ( Relax ) 腰（平度） +1 -1 CMSHip 坐圍 +1 -1 CMSFront Rise 前浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSBack Rise 后浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSLength 長度 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBottom 腳 +1 -1/2 CMSSIZE MEASUREMENT TOLERANCE （KNIT）Waist 腰 +1 -1 CMSHip 坐圍 +1 -1 CMSFront Rise 前浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSBack Rise 后浪 +1/2 -1/2 CMSLength 長度 +1-1/2 -1 C

46、MSBottom 腳 +1 -1/2 CMSSIZE MEASUREMENT TOLERANCE ( WOVEN ) 梭織(A) SHIRTS, BLOUSE, PYJAMA, VEST, SLEEPSHIRT: TOLERANCE 恤 女恤 睡衣 背心 睡袍 MORE（多）LESS（少）Chest 胸 +1-1/2 -1 CMSWaist 腰 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBottom 腳 +1-1/2 -1 CMSShoulder 肩 +1 -1/2 CMSAcross Chest 胸橫 +1/2 -1/2 CMSAcross Back 后橫 +1/2 -1/2 CMSArmhole 夾圈 +

47、1 -1/2 CMSSleeve Length 袖長 +1-1/2 -1 CMSCuff 袖口 +1 -1/2 CMSCollar 領(lǐng)長 +1/2 -0 CMSBack Length 后長 +1 -1 CMS (B) JACKET: 外衣Chest 胸 +2 -1 CMSBottom 腳 +2 -1 CMSShoulder 肩 +1-1/2 -1 CMSArmhole 夾圈 +2 -1 CMSSleeve Length 袖長 +2 -1 CMSCuff 袖口 +1-1/2 -1 CMSCollar 領(lǐng)長 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBack Length 后長 +2 -1 CMS SIZE ME

48、ASUREMENT TOLERANCE ( KNIT ) 針織 TOPS & BLOUSE TOLERANCE MORE (多) LESS（少）Chest 胸 +1-1/2 -1 CMSWaist 腰 +1-1/2 -1 CMSBottom 腳 +1-1/2 -1 CMSShoulder 肩 +1 -1/2 CMSArmhole 夾圈 +1 -1/2 CMSSleeve Length 袖長 +1-1/2 -1 CMSCollar 領(lǐng)長 +1 -1/2 CMSBack Length 后長 +1-1/2 -1 CMSZONE CHEST LISTGarment defects are ranked according to degree of variation from standard. Such variation ma