中國傳統(tǒng)服飾_英文PPT

1、Chinese Costumes The Chinese costume, which has over 5,000 years history, is just like a long river. And today well present them in three parts, Han Dynasty, Tang Dynasty and Qing Dynasty.Part1 Han FuPart1 Han FuPart2 Costume in Part2 Costume in Tang Dynasty Tang Dynasty Part3 CheongsamPart3 Cheongs

2、amHan Fu HanfuHanfu is also known as HanzhuangHanzhuang or HuafuHuafu ，is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives from the Book of Han, which says, then many came to the Court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han. （后數(shù)來朝賀，樂漢衣服制度）Standard st

3、ylehistorySpecific stylebodybodyHistory Hanfu has a history of more than three millennia, and is said to have been worn by the legendary Yellow Emperor. From the beginning of its history, Hanfu (especially in elite circles) was inseparable from silk, supposedly discovered by the Yellow Emperors cons

4、ort, Leizu. The Shang Dynasty developed the rudiments of Hanfu; it consisted of a yi, and chang, worn with a bixi,. Vivid primary colors and green were used, due to the degree of technology at the time. the Western Zhou Dynasty， the Hanfu became looser, with the introduction of wide sleeves and jade

5、 decorations hung from the sash which served to keep the yi closed. The yi was essentially wrapped over, in a style known as jiaoling youren, or wrapping the right side over before the left In the Eastern Zhou Dynasty， the “deep robe” (shenyi 深衣) appeared a combination of tunic（束腰外衣） and skirt. The

6、upper and lower halves were cut separately but sewn as a single unit. An additional change was the shaping of the left side of the costume into a corner, fastened on the chest. Since Song and Yuan, official record used Hanfu to indicate garments Hans wear During Liao dynasty, the emperor of Liao and

7、 Han officials wear Hanfu, and Empress and Khitan（契丹） officials wear their national clothing. During Yuan dynasty, when editing History of Liao, the officials especially made an entry for Hanfu The term Hanfu to describe the clothing system of Hans, was not often used within Hans, but was more often

8、 used in other ethnic groups and nations, to distinguish the Hans clothing system and their own clothing systemStandard styleHat and head dressInformal dressSemi-formalFormal dressCourt dressHat and headwear-garment The style of Han Chinese clothing can be summarized as containing garment elements t

9、hat are arranged in distinctive and sometimes specific ways. This may be different from the traditional garment of other ethnic groups in China, most notably the Manchu-influenced Chinese clothes, the qipao, which is popularly assumed to be the solely recognizable style of traditional Chinese garb.

10、A comparison of the two styles can be seen as the following provides Yi (衣): Any open cross-collar garment, and worn by both sexes Pao (袍): Any closed full-body garment, worn only by men in Hanfu Ru (襦): Open cross-collar shirt Shan (衫): Open cross-collar shirt or jacket that is worn over the yi Qun

11、 (裙) or chang (裳): Skirt for women and men Ku (褲): Trousers or pantsOn top of the garments, hats (for men) or hairpieces (for women) may be worn. One can often tell the profession or social rank of someone by what they wear on their heads. The typical types of male headwear are called jin (巾) for so

12、ft caps, mao (帽) for a stiff hats and guan (冠) for formal headdress. Officials and academics have a separate set of hats for them, typically the putou (幞頭), the wushamao (烏紗帽), the si-fang pingding jin (四方平定巾; or simply, fangjin: 方巾) and the Zhuangzi jin (莊子巾). A typical hairpiece for women is a ji

13、(笄) but there are more elaborate hairpieces.Informal dress Types include tops (yi) and bottoms (divided further into pants and skirts for both genders, with terminologies chang or qun), and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi). A typical set of Hanfu can consist o

14、f two or three layers The first layer of clothing is mostly the zhongyi (中衣) which is typically the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants. The next layer is the main layer of clothing which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat c

15、alled a zhaoshan which is open at the front. Semi-formal dress A piece of Hanfu can be made semi-formal by the addition of the following appropriate items: chang (裳): a pleated skirt bixi(蔽膝): long front cloth panel attached from the waist belt zhaoshan(罩衫): long open fronted coat guan(冠) or any for

16、mal hatsFormal dressXuanduan (玄端): a very formal dark robe; equivalent to the Western white tieShenyi (深衣): a long full body garment (曲裾): diagonal body wrapping (直裾): straight lapelsYuanlingshan (圓領衫), lanshan (襴衫) or panlingpao (盤領袍): closed, round-collared robe; mostly used for official or academ

17、ical dressCourt dressCourt dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in c

18、omponents but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions.Specific Style Historically, Han Clothing has influenced many of its neighbouring cultural costumes

19、, such as Japanese kimono, yukata,Korean Hanbok and the Vietnamese o t thn. Elements of Hanfu have also been influenced by neighbouring cultural costumes, especially by the nomadic peoples to the north, and Central Asian cultures to the west by way of the Silk Road.Costume in Tang Dynasty 1、The brie

20、f introduction of costume in Tang dynasty 2、The features of costume in Tang dynasty 3、How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being? Brief Introduction The clothing materials were exquisite（精美的） The structure was natural, graceful and elegant Adornments were splendid Complimented by elaborate hai

21、rstyle, ornaments and face makeupThe general features of womens costume in Tang dynasty：1)topless（上空裝，袒胸裝）2）exposed arm3）oblique(斜的）collar4）large sleeves5）long skirt dressAll of these make it deservethe most typical open clothingstyle. The clothing materials areexquisite, the structure isnatural, gr

22、aceful and elegant,and adornments are splendid. This is the famous picture簪花侍女圖showing a lady strolling in the court The lady was wearing a leno-made upper garment, high-waist skirt and without underdress. This was called “topless”（上空裝，袒胸裝）Mindedness: the open-minded state“綺羅纖縷見肌膚” “蟬翼羅衣白玉人 ” The op

23、en clothing style and its softness and lightness make the womens costume in Tang dynasty so unique and distinctive. The Tang women dressed in sets of garments, and each set a unique image in itself. In general, the Tang womens dressescan beclassified into three categories:（1）Thetraditional ruqun or

24、double layered or padded short jacket that is typical of central ChinaRuqun（襦裙）（襦裙）is worn by women. When its collar likes the letter “y”, we can called it “交領襦裙”.If its collar likes the number“11”,we can called it “對襟襦裙”. When they are classified by its height of the skirt，we can called them “齊腰襦裙”

25、Which waistband is on the waist. Or “齊胸襦裙”Which waistband is above the chest .（ 2）the hufu, or alien dress that came from the Silk Road;（3）Cross-Dressing(namely,girls dressed as boys)， the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities拘謹,禮節(jié). After the reign of Tang E

26、mperor Gaozong, purple was used as the garment color for officials above the third grade; light red, officials above the fifth grade; dark green. officials above the sixth grade; light green, officials above the seventh grade; dark cyan, officials above the eighth grade; light cyan, officials above

27、the ninth grade; and yellow, ordinary people and those who did not live in the palace. How does costume in Tang Dynasty come into being? First,in Chinese history, the Tang Dynasty (AD618-907) was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed.Materialistic abundan

28、ce and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally, reaching its height in poetry, painting, music and dance. Second,Based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques, the variety, quality and quantity of textile mate

29、rials reached an unprecedented height. The structure is natural, graceful and elegant, and adornments are splendid. As an important cultural element, womans costume in various forms in the Tang Dynasty well illustrates the open-mindedness and affluence during that period. Third, The Tang government

30、was tolerant, and often appreciative of religions, art and culture from the outside world.Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD) and the Sui Dynasty (581-618), they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Weste

31、rn Regions. Will you accept your girlfriends/ yourselves dressing very open?Origin DevelopmentOriginnameThe name cheongsammeaning simply long dressentered the English vocabulary fromthe dialect of Chinas Guangdong Province. In other parts of the country including Beijing, however, it is known as qip

32、ao, which has a history behind it.Qing Dynasty(1644), Manchu, Banner People (qi ren).1645 Shunzhi, “Tifa Yifu” Policy(剃發(fā)易服易服)the next 300 years, became adopted by the Chinese. Survived the political turmoil of the 1911 Xinhai Revolution toppled the Qing Dynasty.The history of cheongsamThe details of

33、 cheongsam shirt is not exposed(衫不露外衫不露外) the right-side lapellpel of junctiondkn decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盤紐為飾偏襟右衽以盤紐為飾) clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣衣外加衣) increase waistcoatweskt or jacket(增加坎肩或馬褂增加坎肩或馬褂) clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身衣服上下不取腰身)Rectangular outline(外輪廓呈長方形外輪廓呈長方形) Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand(馬蹄袖蓋手馬蹄袖蓋手) set rolling craft decoration(鑲滾工藝裝飾鑲滾工藝裝飾)flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋花盆鞋) Frog盤扣盤扣Openings衩Embroiderymbrdr 刺繡刺繡Front of a garment襟Development From 1914 to 1949From 1914 to 19491930194019301940，Peak periodPeak period wester