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1__________________________I

wake

up

to

the

sound

of

the

wind

buffeting

the

cloth

of

my

tent.

Even

though

the

sunis

brightlyshining,

telling

whether

it

is

morning

or

night

is

impossible.

I'm

above

the

Arctic

Circle,

where

in

summerthe

sun

never

sets.SarekNationalParkChecking

my

watch,

Isee

thatit

is

7:30

a.m.I

leavemy

tent

and

walk

over

to

themountainedge.

Spreading

outbeforeme,

branches

of

the

Rapa

River

flow

through

thevalley

below.

I'min

the

remote

farnorth

ofSweden

in

Sarek

National

Park,

a

place

with

no

roads

or

towns.2______________________Sarek's

mountains

used

to

be

covered

by

vast

sheets

of

ice.

Around

9,000

years

ago,

thisicemelted,

leaving

behind

about

100

glaciers.

Soon

after,

reindeer

began

to

arrive.

Following

thereindeer

were

the

Samipeople,

who

made

this

territory

their

home.

Gettinghere

is

quite

difficult,so

apartfrom

the

Sami

very

few

people

have

ever

seen

Sarek.

In

1909,

Sarek

was

made

a

nationalparkin

order

to

keep

the

land

in

its

natural

state.Though

the

Sami

are

allowed

to

continue

theirtraditional

wayof

life

in

the

park,

no

one

else

can

live

here,

and

all

new

developmentis

bannedwithin

park

boundaries.

At

the

far

side

of

the

valley,

an

ancient

Sami

cottage

is

visible.Close

by,there

are

a

few

reindeer

feeding

on

grass.3_____________________________Forhundredsofyears,lookingafterreindeerwasawayoflifefortheSami.Theyusedthereindeer'smeatforfood,theirbonesfortools,andtheirskinformakingclothesandtents.Sincereindeerwerealwaysonthemove,theSamiwouldpickuptheirtentsandaccompanythem.

Today,mostSamihavehousesinvillagesnearSarekandliveamodernlifejustliketheirneighbours.Buteveryspring,asmallnumberofSamistillfollowtheirreindeerintothevalleysofSarek,livingin

tents

or

old

cottages

and

enjoyingtheir

traditions.

I

am

not

a

Sami,

but

in

SarekI've

adoptedsome

of

their

habits.For

example,

this

morning

my

breakfast

is

flat

bread

warmed

over

a

fire,

driedreindeer

meat,

and

some

sweet

and

sour

berries

that

I

found

growing

near

my

tent.4_____________________________After

breakfast,

I

pack

my

bag

and

set

out

again.

Since

I

must

carry

all

of

my

food

and

supplieswith

me,

my

bag

weighs

about

30

kilograms.

If

today

is

anything

like

yesterday,

it

will

be

full

ofsweat

and

hard

work

as

I

hikeover

this

difficult

land

to

my

destination

onthe

other

side

of

thevalley.

However,Icannotcomplain.Beinginsuchabeautifulandwildplace

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