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Lookingforajobafteruniversity?First,getoffthesofaMorethan650,000studentsleftuniversitythissummerandmanyhavenoideaaboutthewaytogetajob.Howtoughshouldaparentbetogalvanizetheminthesefinanciallyfraughttimes?1InJuly,youlookedonasyourhandsome21-year-oldson,dressedingownandmortarboard,proudlyclutchedhishonorsdegreeforhisgraduationphoto.Thosememoriesofforkingoutthousandsofpoundsayearsothathecouldeatwellandgototheoddpartybegantofade.Untilnow.2Asthesummerbreakcomestoacloseandstudentsacrossthecountryprepareforthestartofanewterm,youfindthatyourgraduatesonisstillspendinghisdaysslumped掉落infrontoftheevision,brokenonlybytexting,andvisitstothepub.ThisformerscionofGenerationYhasmorphed改變overnightintoamemberofGeneratingGruntWillheevergetaThisisthescenariofacingthousandsoffamilies.than650,000studentsleftuniversitythissummerandmostinthesefinanciallytestingtimeshavenoideawhattodonext.Parentsrevertto回復nagging;sonsanddaughters rebelswithoutacause,awarethattheyneedtogetajob,butnotsureJackGoodwin,fromMiddle,graduatedwitha2:1inpoliticsfromNottinghamthissummer.Hewalkedintotheuniversitycareersserviceandstraightbackoutagain;therewasabigqueue.Helivedwithfiveotherboysallofwhomdidthesame.Therewasnopressuretofindajob,eventhoughmostofthegirlsheknewhadaclearern.“Iappliedforajobasapoliticalresearcher,butgotturneddown,”hesays.“theywerepaying£18,000,doesn’tbuyyoumuchmorethanatinofbeansafterrent,buttheywantedpeoplewithexperienceormaster’sdegrees.ThenIappliedfortheCivilServicefaststream.Ipassedtheexam,butattheinterviewstheyaccusedmeofbeing‘toodetached”andtalkinginlanguagethatwas‘tootechnocratic’,whichIdidn’tthinkpossible,butobviouslyitis.”Sincethenhehasspentthesummer“hiding”.HecanrecountseveralepisodesofTrafficCopsandhasseenmoredaytimeevisionthanishealthy.Hetalkstohisfriendsabouthisaimlessdaysandfindsthatmostareinthesameboat.Onehasbeendouttostackshelvesbyhisparents.Fortherestitis9-to-5“chilling”beforeheadingtothepub.Sohowaboutworkingbehindthebar,topayforthosedrinks?“Idon’twanttodowork.IwenttoacomprehensiveandIworkedmybacksideofftogotoagooduniversity,whereIworkedreallyhardtogetagooddegree,”hesays.“NowI’mbackatthesamestageasthosefriendswhodidn’tgotouniatall,whoarepullingpintsandngdead-endjobs.IfeelthatI’vecomefullcircle.”JacquelingGoodwin,hismother,defendshim.Sheinsiststhathehastriedtogetajob,buthavingworkedfull-timesinceleavingschoolherself,sheandherhusbandfindittrickytoadvisehimonhowtoproceed.“Ihavealwayshadtowork,”shesays.“It’sdifficultbecausewhenyouhaveadegree,itopensnewdoorsforyou,oryou’dliketothinkthatitdoes.”Althoughsheistakingasoftlinewithhersonatthemoment,sheisclearthatafteran ingthree-weektriptosouthAmerica,hisholidayfromworkwillhavetoend.Hemayevenhavetopayrentandcontributetothehouseholdbills.“They’vegottogrowupatsomepoint.We’vefinishedpayingforuniversity,soalittlebitofhelpbackisgood,”shesays.“TheSouthAmericatripisthecutoffpoint.Whenhecomesbackthere’llbeChristmasworkifnothingelse.”GaelLindenfield,apsychotheandtheauthoroftheEmotionalHealingStrategy,saysthattheGoodwinparentsstruckexactlytherightnote.Thetransitionfromuniversitytoajobistoughforparentsandchildren:Cruciallytheymustbalancebeingpositiveandunderstandingwithnotmakinglifetoocomfortablefortheiroffspring.“themainjobfortheparentsistobetherebecauseifstartadvisingthemwhattodo,thatiswhenthestarts.Ifyouhavecontacts,byallmeansusethose,”shesaid.“Butalotofparentsgettoosoft.Putlimitsonhowmuchmoneyyougivethem,askthemtopayrentorcontributetothecareofthehouseorthepets.Carryonlifeasnormalanddon’tallowthemtoabuseyourbankaccountorsapyourreservesofemotionalenergy.”payingforcareerconsultations,trainfarestointerviewsorbooksaregoodthings;beingtoopushyisnot.Butwhileparentsshouldbewaryof ingtoosoft,Lindenfieldadvisesthemtotreadsympatheticallyafterajobsetbackforafewdaysorevenweeks–dependingonthescaleoftheknockAfterthatthesonordaughterneedstobenudgedfirmlybackintothesaddle.13boysaremorelikelytogetstuckathomeLingenfieldbelievesthatmenareoftenbetteratheltheirsons,nephews,orfriends’sonsthanaremothersandsisters.Menhaveadifferentwayofhandlingsetbacksthanwomen,shesays,sotheyneedthepresencetotalkitasforbarwork,sheisapassionateadvocate:it’sagreatantidotetograduateapathy.Itjustdependsonhowyouapproachit.Lindenfield,whofoundherfirstjobasanaerialphotographicassistantthroughbarwork,saysitisagreatnetworkingopportunityandcertainlymorelikelytogetyouajobthanlounginginfrontoftheTV.“Thesamegoesforshelf-stacking.Youwillbespottedifyou’regoodatit.Ifyou’rebrightandcheerfulandarepolitetothecustomers,you’llsoongetmovedon.Sothinkofitasanopportunity;peoplewhoaresuccessfulinthelongrunhaveoftengotshelf-stackingstories,”shesays.yoursonordaughtermaynotwanttofollowHollywoodstarssuchasWhoopiGoldbergintoapplyingmake-uptocorpsesinamortuary,orguardingnuclearpowerntslikeBruceWills,butevenBradPitthadtostandoutsideElPolloLocorestaurantchaininagiantchickensuitatonetimeinhislife.Noneofthemappearsthepoorerfortheseexperiences.unit1大學畢業(yè)找工作的第一要義:別躺在沙發(fā)上做65知道怎么找工作在金融的背景下做父母的該如何激勵他們?七月,你看著英俊的21歲的兒子穿上學士袍,戴上四方帽, ,拍畢業(yè)照。這時,中每年支付幾千英鎊,好讓兒子吃好、并能偶爾參加聚會的開始消退。但等到暑假快要結(jié)束各地的學生正在為新學期做準備的時爾發(fā)發(fā)瀏覽社交或者去酒吧喝酒這位屬“千禧一代的年青人之間變成“抱怨一代的成員他能找到工作嗎?這就是成千上萬家庭所的狀況今年夏天65萬多大學生畢業(yè)在金融的背景下他們中的大多數(shù)人不知道自己下一步該做什么。父母只會嘮叨,而兒女們則毫無緣由地變成了叛逆者。他們知道自己該找份工作,但卻不知道如何去找。來自郡的今年夏天從諾丁漢大學政 另外5個男孩子也都跟他一樣,進去又出來了。找工作的壓力不大,雖然他所認識的大多數(shù)都有更明確的計劃。他說“我申請政治學研究工作,但被了。他們給的年是1萬8千鎊,交完房租后所剩無幾,也就夠買一罐豆子,可他們還要有研究經(jīng)歷或的人然后我又申請參加快速晉升人才培養(yǎng)計劃過了在面太像專家政治論我覺得自己不可能那樣,但我顯然就是那樣《交通中的若干片段他白天看電視的時間太長已經(jīng)到境和自己一樣其中一位朋友在父母的迫下去超市上貨其·他的母親替他辯護。她堅持認為兒子已經(jīng)盡力了。因為她自己中學畢業(yè)后一直都在工作,所以她和丈夫發(fā)不得不在的年青人很難做到這一點為如果你有了·就會為你提供新的機會,至少你自己會這南美度三星期的假之后,他的休假就該結(jié)束了。他可能還得付房租,并分擔家庭開支。心理治療師蓋爾“父母的主要任務(wù)就是支持孩子,如果他們教導孩子該如何做,那么就會引起如果有熟人一定要找他們想辦法她說“但用的銀行賬戶或者榨們的情感能量”為孩子支付職業(yè)咨詢費、面試交通費及書費是好事,但不能催男孩更容易窩在家里林登費爾德相信比母親和姐妹更容易幫助兒子侄子或朋友的兒子她說由于和女人處理挫折的方式不同,所以男孩需要跟談話才能度過難關(guān)。林登費爾德強烈支持去酒吧打工:那是克服畢業(yè)冷漠癥的一劑林登費爾德找到了第一份當航拍助手的工作她說在酒吧工作是她說“在超市上貨也一樣如果干得好你就會發(fā)現(xiàn)的那些最終成功的很多都有在超市上貨的經(jīng)歷”·當?shù)幢闶遣祭乱苍?jīng)不得不穿上寬大的小雞模樣的服裝站在快餐連鎖店Elollooco的門口招攬生意。他們中沒有一個人因為這些經(jīng)歷而變得更加窮困?!nit2Danger!BooksmaychangeyourLikeLewisCarroll'sAlice,whofallsintoarabbitholeanddiscoversamysteriouswonderland,whenwepickupabookweareabouttoenteranewworld.We eobserversoflifefromthepointofviewofaolderthanourselves,orthroughtheeyesofachild.Wemaytravelaroundtheglobetocountriesorcultureswewouldneverdreamofvisitinginreallife.We'llhaveexperienceswhicharenew,sometimesdisconcerting,maybedeeplyattractive,possiblyunpleasantorpainful,butneverlessthanliberatingfromtherealworldwecomefrom.TheEnglishpoetWilliamCowper(1731–1800)said"Variety'stheveryspiceoflife,/Thatgivesitallitsflavour"althoughheneglectedtosaywhereorhowwecouldfindit.Butweknowhewasright.Weknowweliveinaworldofvarietyanddifference.Weknowthatpeoplelivevariousdifferentlives,spendtheirtimeinvariousdifferentways,havedifferentjobs,believeindifferentthings,havedifferentopinions,differentcustoms,andspeakdifferentlanguages.Normally,wedon'tknowtheextentofthesedifferences,yetsometimeswhensomethingunusualhappenstomakeusnotice,varietyanddifferenceappearmoreasathreatthananopportunity.Readingbooksallowsustoenjoyandcelebratethisvarietyanddifferenceinsafety,andprovidesuswithanopportunitytogrow.To ctwithotherpeople'slivesinthepeaceandquietofourhomesisaprivilegewhichonlyreadingfictioncanaffordus.Weevenunderstand,howeverfleetingly,thatwehavemoreincommonwithotherreadersofbooksinotherculturesthanwemightdowiththefirst wemeetwhenwestepoutofourfrontdoors.WelearntolookbeyondourimmediatesurroundingstothehorizonandalandscapefarawayfromIfweeverquestionthetruthofthepowerofreadingbooks,weshouldtakethetroubletogotoourlocallibraryorbookshop,oreven,ifwe'refortunateenough,tothebooksonourshelvesathome.Weshouldwonderatthestrikingvistascreatedbythetitlesofnovelsrangingfromtheclassicstothemostrecent:TheGrapesofWrathbyJohnSteinbeck, HandbyJohnIrving,CancerWardbyAleksandrSolzhenitsyn,ForWhomtheBellTollsbyErnestHemingway,OurManinHavanabyGrahamGreene,TheTimeTraveller'sWifebyAudreyNiffeneggerorSalmonFishingintheYemenbyPaulTorday.Thenweshouldreflectontheotherliveswe'llmeetoncewebegintoread.Everybookwillhaveitsownlanguageanddialect,itsownvocabularyandgr r.Wemaynotalwaysunderstandeverywordorsentence,butwhetherwe'reenchantedorwhetherwefeelexcluded,ouremotionsareneverthelessstimulated.Otherpeopleandotherculturesarenotalwaysdistantbecauseofgeography.Inabookwemayconfrontpeoplewholiveinadifferentclimate,havedifferentreligiousbeliefs,orcomefromadifferentethnicgroup.Evenourneighboursdowntheroadmaybestrangerswhowecanonlymeetthroughbooks.Assoonasweareabletolisten,booksaresupremelyinfluentialinthewaywelive.Fromthebedtimestoryreadbyaparenttotheirchildallthewaythroughtothesittingroomlinedwithbooksinouradulthomes,booksdefineourlives.TheEnglishwriterE.M.Forster(1879–1970)evenhintedatamoremysticalpowerwhichbookspossessoverus.Hewrote,"Isuggestthattheonlybooksthatinfluenceusarethoseforwhichweareready,andwhichhavegonealittlefurtherdownourparticularpaththanwehavegoneourselves."It'sasiftherightbookcomestoseekusoutattherightmoment,andoffersitselftous—it'snotuswhoseekoutthebook.ThomasMerton(1915–1968),theAmericanmonk,priestandwriter,wasonceaskedaseriesofsevenquestionsbyajournalist:Namethelastthreebooksyouhaveread,thethreebooksyouarereadingnow,thebooksyouintendtoread,thebooksthathaveinfluencedyou,andwhy,abookthateveryoneshouldread,andwhy.Forthebookswhichhadinfluencedhim,hecitedpoeticworksofWilliamBlake,variousysbyancientGreekthinkersandwriters,andanumberofreligiouswritings.Whenaskedwhytheyhadinfluencedhim,hereplied,"Thesebooksandotherslikethemhavehelpedmetodiscovertherealmeaningofmylife,andhavemadeitpossibleformetogetoutoftheconfusionandmeaninglessnessofanexistencecompleyimmersedintheneedsandpassivitiesfosteredbyacultureinwhichsalesareeverything."SohowwouldyouanswertheIn1947,CliftonFadimancoinedthetermhome-runbook.Whenabaseballyerhitsahomerun,hehitstheballsohardandsofarhe'sabletorunroundthefourbasesofthediamond,andscorepointsnotonlyforhimselfbutfortheotherrunnersalreadyonabase.It'sthemostenjoyableandsatisfyingeventinabaseballgame.Likewise,ahome-runbookdescribesnotthechild'sfirstreadingexperience,butthefirsttimetheyreadabookwhichinducessuchpleasureandsatisfactionthattheycan'tputitdown.Forhundredsofmillionsofchildrenaroundtheworld,thebestknownexampleofahome-runbookwillbetheHarryAsadults,we'realwayslookingforourownhome-runbooks,notjustforthefirsttime,buttimeaftertimeagain.Whoeverhasreadanovelinonesittingwillalwaysrememberthepleasureandsatisfactionwhichawaitus,andeagerly,insistently,sometimesevendesperayseekstoreproducethemarvelloussensationagain.Wecannotwithstandthehungertovisitanotherworld,tomeetdifferentpeople,toliveotherlivesandtoreflectonourselves.Danger!Booksmaychangeyourlife.Suchisthepowerofunit2!書可能會改變你的人·1不掉進了兔子洞里但她在那過要的國家和文化我們可以體驗未曾經(jīng)歷過的事情這些事情·的,但無論如何都至少能把我們從現(xiàn)實世界中解放出英國詩人威廉·柯珀(17311800)化但我們知道他說得對我們知道我們一個充滿變化與,毋寧說是。才享有的我們甚至感覺到——哪怕只是在一瞬間——我們和異文化讀者的共同點或許要多于我們和家門口隨便碰到的一個趟當?shù)氐酿^或書店或者如果我們足夠幸運的話可以讀一讀家里書架上的書。克《的葡萄約翰歐文《第四只手》索爾仁尼琴《癌歐內(nèi)斯特海明威的《喪鐘為誰而鳴格雷厄姆··尼芬格的《時間旅行者的妻子《到也門釣鮭魚一旦開始閱讀我們就應(yīng)該思考一下我們在書中讀到的別樣人生。每一本書都有自己的語言、方言、能理解其中的每一個字、每一句話,但不管我們是癡迷其中,還是見不同氣候有不同信仰來自不同民族的人即便是住中擺滿書柜的客廳,書界定了我們的人生。英國作家.M.(1879–1970書在我們已經(jīng)選定的道走得比我們更遠一些”合適的書好像自·7修士牧師及作家(1915–1968曾經(jīng)被一連串地問了7個問題說出你最近讀完的3本書你正在讀的3書你打算要讀的書對你有影響的書并解釋一下理由一本你覺得每人都要讀的書并解釋一下理由關(guān)于對他有影響的書他列出了 的詩集古希臘思想家和作家寫的各種戲劇以及一些·作品。當被問及這些書為何會影響他時,他回答這些—還有其他類似的書籍——幫助我找到了人生的文化培育了人們無止境的需求和消極生活充滿了困惑和空虛那么,你又會如何回答這些問1947年頓法迪曼發(fā)明“全壘打書籍這個詞當一波特》系列故事。作為成年人,我們尋找自己的“全壘打書籍,不僅是第一想經(jīng)歷別樣的人生并自我反省,我們無法遏制這樣的渴求。 !書可能會改變你的人生。這就是讀書的力量Unit FiftyyearsofNohistoryoffashionintheyears1960to2010canoverlookorunderestimatetwoconstantfactors:theubiquitousnsandtheriseandfallofhemlinesforwomen'sskirtsanddresses.Denim,thematerialwhichnsaremadeof,wasknowninFranceinthelate16thcentury,butitwasLeviStrausswhosawthatminersintheCaliforniangoldrushinthemid-19thcenturyneededstrongtrousers,whichhereindwithmetalrivets.BluedenimnsremainedpopularintheUSasworkclothesuntilthe1950s,butthenbecameassociatedwithyouth,newideas,rebellionandindividuality.WhenLeviStrauss&CobegantoexportbluenstoEuropeandAsiainthelate1950s,theywereboughtandwornwithhugeenthusiasmbyyoungpeopleandrecognizedasasymboloftheyoung,informalAmericanwayoflife.Hemlineshaveamorepeculiarsignificanceduringthisperiod.Ithasoftenbeennotedthatthereisaprecisecorrelation,withonlyafewexceptions,betweenthelengthofwomen'sskirtsandtheeconomy.Asthestockmarketrises,sodohemlines,andwhenitfalls,sodothey.Exactlywhywomenshouldwanttoexposemoreorlessoftheirlegsduringperiodsofeconomicboomandbustremainsamystery.Butthegeneraltrendisinescapable.Whenevertheeconomicoutlookisunsettled,bothmenandwomentendtowearmoreconservativeclothes.Perhapsthemostimportantdevelopmentinfashioninthe1960swastheminiskirt,inventedbytheBritishdesignerMaryQuant.BecauseQuantworkedintheheartofSwingingLondon,theminiskirtdevelopedintoamajorinternationalfashion.ItwasgivengreaterrespectabilitywhenthegreatFrenchdesigner,Courrèges,developeditintoanitemofhighfashion.Butitwouldnothaveachievedsuchinternationalcurrencywithoutthedevelopmentoftights,insteadofstockings,becausetheriseinhemlinesmeantthestockingtopswouldbevisible.Thehippiemovementofthemid-1960sandearly1970sinfluencedthedesignofns,withthetrouserlegdeveloaflared"bell-bottom"style.Bythemid-1970s,astheeconomydeteriorated,hemlinesdroppedtomidi(mid-calflength)andmaxi(anklelength),whilenswerenolongerexclusivelyblue.nsremainedfashionableduringtheperiodofpunk,usuallywornripped,oftenwithchainsandstuddedbelts.Thelooklastedforseveralyears,althoughbecamemoreandmorerestrictedtosmallgroupsofinner-cityyoungpeople,andhadlittleinfluenceonotheragegroups.Asabacklashtotheanarchyofpunk,theNewRomanticswasafashionmovementwhichoccurredmainlyinBritishnightclubs.Itwasglamorousandcourageous,andfeaturedlavishfrilledshirts. nswere ynotacceptable.Themid-1980ssawtheriseofanumberofdifferentstyles.Powerdressingwascharacterizedbysmartsuitsand,forthenewly-empoweredwomen,shoulderpadsandknee-lengthskirts.Notsurprisingly,theeconomywasunstable,andpeopletooklessrisksinwhattheywore.Formen,theMiamiVicestyle,namedafterthe evisionseries,madeuseofsmartT-shirtsunderdesignerjackets,anddesignerstubble—threeorfourdaysofbeardgrowth.Butasalways,denimremainedpopularwiththeyoung.Inparticular,heavymetalmusicfansworebleachedandrippednsanddenimjackets.Graduallyhemlinesstartedtoriseagain...untiltheworldstockmarketcrashin1987.Sothelate1980sintheUSsawtheriseofthemoreconservativestylecalledPreppystyle,withclassicclothesbyRalphLaurenandBrooksBrothersformen,button-downshirts,chinosandloafers,withasweatertiedlooselyaroundtheneck.Theyalsoworens,buteitherbrand-neworcleanandsmartlypressed—notatallwhatLeviStraussoriginallyintended.Astheworldeconomiesimprovedagaininthe1990s,fashionforyoungpeoplebecamemoredaring.BootsandConverseorNiketrainersremainedpopular,butthepredominantcoloursbecameolivegreenandoatmeal.Hairwaswornlong,orcutyshortanddyedblue,greenorred.Hoodies,baseballcapsandbaggyns,whichwereoftenwornlowbelowthebuttocks,werecommononthestreets.TheninJanuary2000theNewYorktechnologystockmarketcollapsed.Asusual,sodidhemlines,whichweredescribedbyonecommentatoras"theprimandproperlookisin.Skirtsshouldbebelowtheknee."Butmerelyoneyearlater,thestockmarketbegantorecover,andthemicrominiskirtreturned.Hemlineswerehigherthantheyhadbeenformanyyears.Duringthisperiod,itwasunusualtowearformalclothesunlessyouwereatwork.Designernsgainedhugepopularity.Theseweremadeofthetraditionaldenim,perhapswithsomelycraadded,butcutandmarketedunderwell-knownbrandssuchasArmani,HugoBossandMoschino,whountilrecentlyhadonlyconcernedthemselveswiththesmartestfashionlines.SkinnynsalsobecamepopularinBritainandmostofEurope.Skirtlengthisuncertain,rangingfrommicroto"sensible"—knee-lengthorjustbelow.Sometimesthehemlineindicator,asit'scalled,canevenprecedeandpredictachangeinthemoodofthestockmarketlongbeforeitactuallyhappens.InSeptember2007,attheNewYorkfashionshows,whichweredisyingtheirstylesforspring2008,thetrendwasformuchlongerdressesandskirts,manytomid-calforevendowntotheankles.Somepeoplefeltthisshowedthatthehemlineindicatorwasnolongerreliable,andthatdesignersnolongerdictatedwhatpeoplewouldwear.DuringtheLondonandNewYorkfashionshowsinSeptember2008,hemlinestodrop.Butsureenough,inthefallof2008,thestockmarketindexesfelldramaticallywhenthebankingcrisishittheUS,Europeandthentherestoftheworld.Hemlineswerenolongerfollowingthestockmarket—theywereshowingthewayandindicatingfutureeconomicDuringthewholeperiod,fashionstyleshaverangedwidely,andhaveusuallybeensparkedoffbyadesiretoidentifypeopleasbelongingtoaparticularsub-culture.Buttheconstantfactorsoverthisperiodaredenimandhemlinesandthegreatestinfluenceshavebeena19th-centuryCalifornianclothesmanufacturerandayoungdesignerintheSwingingLondonofthe1960s.時裝潮流501960至2010的時裝史存在兩個不可忽略或不可低估的不牛仔褲是用粗斜紋布做的,早在16世紀末法國就有了這種布料。19世紀中葉,?發(fā)現(xiàn)在加州淘金的礦工很需要用這種耐用布料做成的牛仔褲,他還用鉚釘來加固褲子。后一直到20世紀50年代,藍色粗斜紋布做的牛仔褲一直只是流行的工裝,但是后來牛仔褲變成了青春、新思想、及個性的標志。50年其為年輕人隨意生活方式的象征。裙擺在這一時期有著特殊的意義。們時常會注意到,女人的裙擺和經(jīng)濟之間存在一種頗為精確的關(guān)聯(lián)性,且鮮有例外。升時裙擺也跟著提高;跌時裙擺就跟著降低。在經(jīng)濟繁榮和時期女性到底為什么要多或少雙腿至今仍然是個謎。但總的趨勢必定是這樣的:每當經(jīng)濟前景不時,和女人都傾向20世紀60年代時裝史上一個最重要的發(fā)展或許就是英國時裝設(shè)計師?發(fā)明的超短裙。由于在“搖擺倫敦”的中心地帶工作,超短裙很快就風行全球。國杰出的時裝設(shè)計師庫雷熱把超短裙變成一件高級時裝時,超短裙得到了人們的認可。但0年代中、0年代初的嬉皮士運動影響了牛仔褲的設(shè)計,牛仔褲的褲腿發(fā)展成了擴張的“喇叭形。到了0年代中期,隨著經(jīng)濟的,裙擺降低到了小腿中部甚至腳踝部,而牛仔褲則不再是清的藍色了。牛仔褲在朋克時期依然很時髦,褲腿通常有的口子,并配有鐵鏈及打著裝飾釘?shù)钠?。種樣式的牛仔褲流行了幾年,但流行的范圍越來越小,僅限于內(nèi)城區(qū)的少數(shù)年輕人群體,對其他要時裝潮流。這種時裝大膽創(chuàng)新、十足:襯衫裝飾有很多褶邊,而牛仔褲是絕對不被認可的。0年代中期興起了幾種風格各異的服裝?!把b以雅致的套裝為特色,帶肩墊的上衣配及膝短裙,受到新近得勢的的歡迎。此時的經(jīng)濟不太穩(wěn)定,難怪人們不想在穿著上太。男士流行以電視劇《邁阿密風云》命名的邁阿密風云式樣的時裝,名牌短外套配時髦的T恤,蓄著有型的短胡須——長三四天的樣子。和往常一樣,粗斜紋布仍然受到年輕人的歡迎。其是重金屬音樂在1987年全球之前,裙擺也開始逐漸地提高。在80年代末興起了一種較為保守的風格,稱為“學院風”。男士穿拉?和兄弟品牌的經(jīng)典服裝,衣領(lǐng)帶紐扣的襯衫、斜紋棉布褲和平底便鞋,脖子上隨意搭著一件毛衣。們也穿牛仔褲,但是新的,或者是干凈、熨平的牛仔褲,完全不是?90年代,隨著世界經(jīng)濟的再次復蘇,年輕人的時裝也變得更加大膽起、匡威和耐克運動鞋都很流行,但是流行色變成了橄欖綠和米灰的頭發(fā)要么留得很長,要么是染成藍色、綠色或紅色的刺猬頭。帽衫、棒球帽及的低腰牛仔褲在街上隨處00年1月,紐約的科技。和往常一樣,裙擺也相應(yīng)地降低了,正如一位評論家所說的,“開始流行了。裙擺應(yīng)該長及過膝?!钡珒H僅過了一年,開始蘇,超短迷你裙又回來了,裙擺比多年以來的高度都要高一些。這段時期,除非在工作時,人們通常不穿正式的服裝???,但是由著名服裝品牌,如阿瑪尼、?及奇諾設(shè)計、銷售。這些品牌公司以前都只做最優(yōu)雅的時裝。身牛仔褲在英國及歐洲大部分地區(qū)很流子的長短不一,既有超短裙,也有時候,所謂的裙擺標志甚至能夠預示的行情。2007年9月的紐約時裝展展示了2008年春季流行式樣,潮流轉(zhuǎn)向了長衣、長裙,裙擺長及小腿中部,甚至到了腳踝。有人覺得這表明裙擺標志靠不住了,服裝設(shè)計師已經(jīng)喪失了對時裝的主宰權(quán)。2008年9月,在倫敦和紐約時裝展中,裙擺的高度繼續(xù)降低。果然,2008 歐美,并波及全球,股指急劇下跌。這時,裙擺不再地追隨的變化,而是預示行情及未來的經(jīng)濟趨勢。希望歸屬于某種亞文化的愿是,這個時期的不變因素是粗斜紋布和裙擺。最大的當屬19世紀加利福尼亞州的一個服裝制造商以及20世紀60年代工作在“搖擺倫敦”的一位年輕的時裝設(shè)計Unit4Thecreditcard Ihaveaconfession.Severalyearsago,Iwasstandinginaqueuetocollectsometheatreticketsformyfamily,andmyfriendwasngthesameforhers.Igotmine,andpaidforthembycreditcard,feelingcontentedbytheconvenienceofthiscash-transaction.Itwasthenherturntopay.Thewholeoperationpassedassmoothlyasmine,butmydelightsoonturnedtoabjectshame.Mycreditcardwasafairlypathetic,status-darkblue,whereasherswasaveryexclusivegoldone. Howdidshedothis?Howcouldthisbe?IknewIearnedmorethanher,mycarwasnewer,andmyhousewassmarter.Howdidshegettoappearmoreflashthanme? Now,Ihadajobwhichwasassteadyasanyjobwasinthosedays–that'stosay,notvery,butyouknow,nocomints.Ihadamortgageonmyhouse,butthenwhodidn't?Ipaidoffallmycreditdebtattheendofthemonth,soalthoughtechnically,Iwasindebttothecreditcard,itwasonlyforamatterofafewweeks.SoIassumedIhadagoodcreditrating.Callmesuperficial,andI'mnotproudofmyself,butthereandthen,Iwassuddenlylousofmyfriend.IdecidedInolongerwantedabluecard.Iwantedagoldone.Agoldcardwassuddenlyindispensable,itwouldmakemefeelgoodwithmyself,anddesirabletoothers. SoIappliedforthemostdistinctive,shinygoldencardtheIwasturned WhenIhadrecoveredfromtheshock,whichtookseveralseconds,Iaskedwhy.ItappearsthatbecauseIpaymycreditcardbillbothontimeandinfull,I'mnotthekindof theywanttohavetheirgoldcreditcard.Theytargetpeoplewhoarepronetoimpulse-buying,andpotentiallybadcreditrisks,temptedtospendmorethantheyhave,andliabletofallbehindwithrepayments.Thentheycanchargethemmoreinterest,andearnmoremoney.That'sthewaytheydobusiness. Sodoesthisexinwhythecreditcardcompaniesareluringimpoverishedstudentswithunrealisticinterestrates,likemykids? Threeweeksago,No.2daughtercamehomefromuniversityfortheweekend.She'sinhersecondtermofherfirstyear.Shehasastudentloanof£3,000,likemostofherfriends,andasmallallowancefromherpoormother(ha!)fortransport,books,livingexpenses.Shewearsclothesfromthelocalcharityshops,andrarelygoesout.Shehuggedme(neverusuallydoesthat)andthensaid,"Mum,Ineedtotalktoyou.""Whatisit,darling?lme "I'veappliedforacreditcard,andIneedsomeonetoactasaguaranteeforme.IsitOKifIputdownyourname?Thankssomuch,Mum,mustdash!Bye."AfterI'dhauledherbackintothehouse,ittranspiredthatherbankhadwrittentoherofferingacreditcardatalowinterestforatrialthree-monthperiod,subjecttosuitability...andsoon.Herbank!Itrustedthem!TheyknowevenbetterthanIdohowbrokesheis.Here'saseriousquestion.Whydotheycallthemcreditcardswhenitwouldbemoreaccuratetocallthemdebtcards? Here'sanevenmoreseriousstory.Anotherfriend'sdaughter,Kelly,wasstudyingmodernlanguagesatuniversity,andspentayearoverseas.Atsomepointintheyear,therewasachangeofprocedure,andKelly'sbankfailedtoallowhertoaccessherfundsinhercurrentaccount,becausetherequestwasfromoutsidetheUK.Naturally,therewasalengthycorrespondencewhileshetriedtosortthisout,sothedelayinbeingabletoaccessherfundsmeantthatshewentintothered,andherdebtsbegantorisemorethan£200abovetheagreedlimitonheroverdraftof£1,500. WhenKellygotbackhome,thebankchargedher£100forgoingoverthelimit,andinsistedshepaid£30amonthtobringthebalancebacktobelowherlimit.Theyomittedtolherthatshewasn'tactuallypayingoffthedebt,butonlytheexorbitantinterestontheoverspendoftheoverdraft. SoKellyhadtoturntohercreditcardwhichshehadusedsensiblyandsparinglyuntilthatpoint.Becauseshewasastudent,andbecauseshedidn'tuseitmuch,naturallyhercreditlimitwaslow.Andnot shepayoff theminimumpaymentonhercreditcardbill.Sothere werenotonlychargesowing,butalsocreditcarddebtsandinterest.Andofcourse,shewasrecordedasbeingabadcreditrisk. Thingsthenwentfrombadtoworse.Afewmonthsintoherfinalyear,thebanknotifiedherthatitwasgoingtoreduceherfrom£1,500to£1,000.Theytoldhertoapplyforastudentloantocovertherest.Butwhentheloan didacreditcheck,theydiscoveredthecarddebt.Guesswhat?Shedidn'tgetthe Thiswasadelightfulkidwhohadgreatrestraintwithherspendingandwaseconomicalaboutherlifestyle.Shedidn'tgoonspendingspreesbuyingnewshoes,andshedidn'tusehercreditcardasif(unlikeme)itwasafashionitem.Sheusedittobuyfood,tosurvive.Andwhathappened?Shehadtodropoutof IwishtherewasahappyendingtoKelly'sstory,althoughmaybetherewillbe.Forthemoment,she'sworkinginthelocalsupermarket,andit'sprobablethatshe'llhaveanothergoatuniversitywhenshehaspaidoffherdebts. Sothisiswhatthebanksdo.Theysettrapswhichappealtoourvanityandgreedandsometimestoourbasicneedforsurvival.Andthenwhenwefallintothetraptheyshout"Gotyou!Didn'tyourealizeitwasatrap?" Andherewearetoday,caughtinthecreditcrunch,withworldeconomiesinfall,allbecausethewickedbankerssetustrapswhichwefellinto,attractinguswithendlesspublicityforloansofmoneywhicheventheydidn'thave!Itnowappearstheywereborrowingontheirownflashygoldcreditcardstoo. SoIhaveasolutiontothecreditcardtrap,andIwantallofyoutolistentomeverycarefully. Iwantyoutolayoutallofyourcreditcardsinaline,takealargepairofscissorsandcutthemintosmallpieces.Thenputtheminanenvelopeandsendthemtoyourbank,withalettersaying(moreorless)"Itrustedyouandyoudeceivedme.You'vegotthewholeworldintothisridiculouscreditcardtrap,andifInowcutyourcardsinhalf,andtakeawayyourpotentialtotemptmoneyawayfromhonestpeoplelikeme,maybeitwillbeyourturntolearnwhatit'sliketorunoutofcash." Asforme,Idon'twantanymorecreditcards,nomorestatussymbols,nomorebadfeelingsaboutwishingIcouldshowhowsuperiorIamtoothers.I'mnotgoingtoyearnanymoreforwhatIcannotaffordorcannothave.Until4陷有一件事我得坦白幾年前我排隊為家人取戲票時我的朋也在為 家人取票我拿到了票用 付了賬對這種非現(xiàn)的便利感到很滿意。然后就輪到她付款了,整 也進行得樣順利,但我的高興勁兒很快就變成了莫大的羞恥:我的太寒酸了是不顯示地位的深藍色卡而則是高級的金卡。的車比車新我的家比家漂亮她怎么看起來顯得比我光鮮呢?我有一份跟那時候任何工作相比還算安定的工作——雖然不是非常安定,不過我也沒什么可抱怨的。我是通過按揭買的房子,可那會兒誰買房不呢?個月底都付清欠款所以雖然從技術(shù)上講我欠過公司的錢但只是欠幾個星期而已所以我認為我的信用等級應(yīng)該很高。然非常嫉妒那位朋友我決定不要藍色了我要一張金卡金。于是,我去公司申請最特別、最耀眼的金卡可是,我的申請被了過了幾秒鐘我才從這個打回過神來我問自己為什么被拒絕顯然因為次都按時全額付清欠款所以我不是他們有潛在信用風險經(jīng)不住超支消費并且經(jīng)常延期還款的人這樣他們才有機會收取的利息掙的錢這就是他們的經(jīng)營之道。這能夠解釋為什么公司會用超低利率像我們家孩子多數(shù)朋友一樣她借了3,000英鎊的學生并從她的()那里得到一小筆補貼,用于支付交通費、書費和生活費她擁抱了我(她以前從不擁抱我,然后說:“,
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