植物皮膚脫色劑的研究進(jìn)展

植物皮膚脫色劑的研究進(jìn)展ResearchAndDevelopmentOnPhyto-activesForSkinDepigmentation美與白

Beautyandwhitening膚色決定因素皮膚內(nèi)色素Pigmentsinskin黑素Melanin類胡蘿卜素Carotenoid血紅蛋白比例Ratioofhemoglobin皮膚厚薄Thicknessofskin表皮Epidermis真皮DermisCriticalfactorsforskincolor

矛盾Conflicts化學(xué)劑-----天然植物Chemicalreagents naturalplants汞劑

Mercurials氫醌

Hydroquinone糖皮質(zhì)激素

Glucocorticoids效果好，安全性差

Goodinefficacy，butbadinsafety研究流程1.植物篩選Plantscreening

酪氨酸活性測(cè)定-蘑菇酪氨酸酶、人酪氨酸酶多巴色素自動(dòng)氧化生成黑素測(cè)定

Tyrosinaseactivitymeasurement-mushroomtyrosinaseand humantyrosinase

Dopamelaninautooxidationandmelaninformationmeasurement2.有效性安全性驗(yàn)證Efficacyandsafetytests黑素瘤細(xì)胞培養(yǎng)Melanomacellculture人表皮黑素細(xì)胞培養(yǎng)Humanmelanocytesculture豚鼠皮膚試驗(yàn)Guineapigskintest人臨床效果觀察Humanclinicalstudyandobservation

3.活性基團(tuán),開發(fā)新藥ActivegroupsandnewdrugdevelopmentStudyscheme主要機(jī)制

Primarymechanisms直接或間接抑制酪氨酸酶 Directorindirectinhibitioneffectontyrosinase還原劑和活性氧族

Reducingreagentandreactiveoxygenspecies降解酪氨酸酶

Tyrosinasedegradation抑制黑素體轉(zhuǎn)運(yùn)

Inhibitionofmelanosometransportation抑制炎癥引起的合成黑素反應(yīng)

Inhibitionofinflammationinducedmelaninsynthesis加速表皮更新

Accelerateturnoverrateofepidermis直接或間接抑制酪氨酸酶

Directorindirectinhibitioneffectontyrosinase

熊果苷Arbutin

(熊果、沙梨樹葉)(Arctostaphylosuva-ursiL. Spreng;P.pyrifolia(Burm.)Nakaitreeleaves)

蘆薈苦素Aloesin

(蘆薈,Aloe)

甲酯龍膽酸2,5-Methylhydroxybenzoicacid(Gentisic methyl)

(龍膽)(GentianascabraBge)

生物類黃酮Bioflavonoid

山奈酚（銀杏）Kaempferol(Gingko) 芹菜素（芹菜）OleanolicAcid/Apigenin(Celery) 柚皮素（柚）Naringenin(CitrusgrandisL.Osbeck)

熊果苷Arbutin熊果苷--------- (Arbutin)Alpha-熊果苷-------- (Alpha-arbutin)脫氧熊果苷----------- (Deoxyarbutin)蘆薈苦素(aloesin)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)性抑制多巴氧化

Competetivelyinhibitondopaoxidation非競(jìng)爭(zhēng)性抑制酪氨酸酶羥化

Non-competetivelyinhibittyrosinasehydroxidation龍膽酯酸

2,5-MethylHydroxybenzoicacid(Gentisicmethyl)草原龍膽Eustomaressellianum2,5-Methylhydroxybenzoicacid(Gentisicmethyl)

生物類黃酮(bioflavonoid)銀杏Gingko(GinkgobilobaL.)金銀花Honeysuckle(LonicerajaponicaThunb)

蕓香科豆科傘形科銀杏科菊科RutaceaeLeguminosaeUmbelliferaeGinkgoaceaeAsteraceae黃酮醇---螯合銅離子，競(jìng)爭(zhēng)性抑制酪氨酸酶活性

Flavonol---Chelatecopperionsandcompetetivelyinhibittyrosinaseactivity黃酮---非競(jìng)爭(zhēng)性抑制酪氨酸酶活性

Flavone---Non-competetivelyinhibittyrosinaseactivity異黃酮---效果差

Isoflavone---Donothavegoodeffect兼有清除自由基的酪氨酸酶抑制劑

Tyrosinaseinhibitorwithfreeradicalscavengerfunction

多酚類Polyphenols——

鞣花酸（石榴皮）Ellagicacid(megranateskin) 白藜蘆醇（葡萄酒）Resveratrol

(Wine) 茶多酚（綠茶）Teapolyphenol(Greentea) 原花青素（葡萄籽）Procyanidins(Grapeseed)

桑辛素F（?？疲?/p>

MoracinF(Moraceae)白藜蘆醇(Resveratrol)競(jìng)爭(zhēng)性抑制

Competetiveinhibition桑樹Mulberry---氧化白藜蘆醇(oxyresveratrol)更強(qiáng)抑制DOPA氧化話性oxyresveratrolhavestrongerinhibitioneffectonDOPAoxidativeactivity虎杖PolygonumcuspidatumSieb茶多酚Teapolyphenol綠茶Greentea表沒(méi)食子兒茶素沒(méi)食子酸酯（EGCG) (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate(EGCG)綠茶Greentea其它多酚Otherpolyphenols原花青素

Procyanidins還原劑和活性氧族

Reducingagentsandreactiveoxygenspeciesα－生育酚（植物油、堅(jiān)果、日本山椒）

α-tocopherols(vegetableoils,nuts,ZanthoxylumJaponica)抑制黑素細(xì)胞膜脂質(zhì)過(guò)氧化反應(yīng)

Inhibitiononmelanocytelipidmembraneperoxidation

降解酪氨酸酶

Tyrosinasedegradation不飽和脂肪酸Unsaturatedfattyacids激活酪氨酸酶降解酶Activationondegradationenzymesoftyrosinase抑制炎癥引起的合成黑素反應(yīng)

Inhibitionofinflammationinducedmelaninsynthesis

藥用蜀葵---影響內(nèi)皮素ET-1 Alcearosea---affect endothelin-1(ET-1)

獨(dú)行菜(Lepidiumapetalum)---通過(guò)IL-6下調(diào)MITF

Peppergrass(Lepidium apetalum)---downregulateMITFthroughIL-6

應(yīng)用----預(yù)防紫外線引起炎癥性色斑

Application----preventUV-inducedpostinflammatoryhyperpigmenation獨(dú)行菜Peppergrass蜀葵Hollyhock(Alcearosea)甘草提取物(licoriceextract)甘草黃酮-抗炎

licoflavone-anti-inflamation甘草黃苷-表皮更新

epidermalturnover/renewal甘草Licorice加速表皮更新

Accelerateturnoverrate/renewalsofepidermis 果酸（乳酸、蘋果酸） Fruitacids(lacticacid,malicacid) 甘草黃苷（甘草） 甘草黃苷(licorice) 亞油酸、亞麻酸 linoleicacid、LinolenicAcid

中藥研究

TraditionalChinesemedicineresearches篩選:300種醇和水提取物

Screening:alcoholandwatersolubleextractsof300kinds單體---體外細(xì)胞試驗(yàn)Monomer---invitrocellculturetests

18ɑ-甘草酸雙胺鹽、蘆薈素、苦參堿、肉桂酸、淫羊藿苷、紅景天甙、橙皮苷、表沒(méi)食子兒茶素沒(méi)食子酸酯

18ɑ-Diammoniumglycyrrbizinate,Aloin,Matrine, Cinnamicacid,Icariin,Ica,Salidroside,Hesperidin,

EGCG豚鼠試驗(yàn)Guineapigtests橙皮苷、甘草素、甘草酸雙胺鹽

Hesperidin,Glycyrrhizin(Liqu